Where2Stay

Admiral Fell Inn
Historic Fell’s Point
888 S. Broadway
410.522.7377
www.harbormagic.com
Rates from $149

Baltimore Marriott Waterfront
Harbor East neighborhood
700 Aliceanna St.
410.385.3000
www.baltimoremarriottwaterfront.com
Rates from $209

Brookshire Suites
Inner Harbor neighborhood
120 E. Lombard St.
410.625.1300
www.harbormagic.com
Rates from $99

Pier 5 Hotel
Inner Harbor neighborhood
711 Eastern Ave.
410.539.2000
www.harbormagic.com
Rates from $179

Scarborough Fair B&B
Federal Hill neighborhood
1 E. Montgomery St.
410.837.0010
www.scarboroughfairbandb.com
Rates vary by room, season and package selection; call for details.

What2Do

American Visionary Art Museum
Inner Harbor neighborhood
800 Key Hwy.
410.244.1900
www.avam.org
Showcases original works by self-taught artists.

Fort McHenry
Southeast of the Inner Harbor neighborhood
2400 E. Fort Ave.
410.962.4290
www.nps.gov/fomc/index.htm
Birthplace of the National Anthem.

National Aquarium
Inner Harbor neighborhood
501 E. Pratt St., Pier 3
410.576.3800
www.aqua.org
Baltimore’s most popular attraction boasts hundreds of exhibits and more than 16,500 aquatic animals.

Reginald F. Lewis Museum of Maryland African American History & Culture
Inner Harbor neighborhood
830 E. Pratt St.
443.263.1800
www.AfricanAmericanCulture.org
Highlights the history and accomplishments of Maryland’s African Americans.

Star Spangled Banner Flag House
Inner Harbor neighborhood
844 E. Pratt St.
410.837.1793
www.flaghouse.org
The 1793 home of seamstress Mary Pickersgill, who made the famous U.S. flag that flew over Fort McHenry.

USS Constellation Museum
Inner Harbor neighborhood
301 E. Pratt St., Pier 1
410.539.1797
www.historicships.org
Explore a historic ship.

Washington Monument and Museum at Mount Vernon Place
Mount Vernon neighborhood
699 N. Charles St.
410.396.1049
www.museumsusa.org/museums/info/1167087
The original Washington Monument, completed in 1829, predates the monument in Washington DC. Climb 228 steps for a $1 donation.

Where2Eat

Believe it or not, these are just a few of the restaurants I visited during my whirlwind introduction to Baltimore. But these made the strongest impression:

Aldo’s Ristorante Italiano
Little Italy neighborhood
306 S. High St.
410.727.0700
www.aldositaly.com
If this isn’t the best Italian food you’ve ever tasted, then you must have an Italian grandmother who should open a restaurant, stat.

B&O American Brassiere
Downtown Baltimore
2 N. Charles St.
443-692-6172
www.bandorestaurant.com
Quality food, expertly prepared.

The Brewer’s Art
Mount Vernon neighborhood
1106 N. Charles St.
410.547.6925
www.thebrewersart.com
Wet your whistle on these finely crafted microbrews; the sampler makes it easy to taste each variety.

Café Hon
Hampden neighborhood
1002 W. 36th St.
410.243.1133
www.cafehon.com
Local treasure serves classic diner fare.

City Café
Mount Vernon neighborhood
1001 Cathedral St.
410.593.4252
www.citycafebaltimore.com
While in Baltimore order crab at least once. This is a great place to get it.

Corks
Federal Hill neighborhood
1026 S. Charles St.
410.752.3810
www.corksrestaurant.com
Trust this chef to prepare just what you crave.

Max’s Taphouse
Fell’s Point neighborhood
737 S. Broadway
410.675.6297
www.maxs.com
Baltimore’s largest beer selection boasts 140 on tap and over 1,200 by the bottle.

Milan
Straddles Harbor East and Little Italy neighborhoods
1000 Eastern Ave.
410.685.6111
www.onemilan.com
If you miss the lobster mac & cheese, I can’t forgive you.

Miss Shirley’s Café
Inner Harbor neighborhood
750 E. Pratt St.
410.528.5373
www.missshirleys.com
If you wake up with a sweet tooth, get breakfast here.

Pazo Restaurant
Harbor East neighborhood
1425 Aliceanna St.
410.534.7296
www.pazorestaurant.com
Upscale fare with Mediterranean influences.

Pitango Gelato
Fell’s Point neighborhood
802 S. Broadway
410.236.0741
www.pitangogelato.com
Tasty, organic treat.

Ryleigh’s Oyster
Federal Hill neighborhood
36 E. Cross St.
410.539.2093
www.ryleighs.com
Quality ingredients, confidently prepared.

Sascha’s 527 Café
Mount Vernon neighborhood
527 N. Charles St.
410.539.8880
www.saschas.com
Eclectic menu, swanky setting.

Sotto Sopra
Mount Vernon neighborhood
405 N. Charles St.
410.625.0534
www.sottosoprainc.com
Trust that the special is worthy of your attention.

Spoons
Federal Hill neighborhood
24 E. Cross St.
410.539.8395
www.spoonscoffeecafe.com
Relax with a cup of coffee and don’t try too hard to resist the pastries.

Talara
Harbor East neighborhood
615 President St.
410.528.9883
www.talarabaltimore.com
Ceviche at its best.

Taverna Corvino
Federal Hill neighborhood
1117 S. Charles St.
410.727.1212
www.tavernacorvino.com
Classic Italian gets a modern twist.

The Wine Market
Locust Point neighborhood
921 E. Fort Ave., Suite 135
410.244.6166
www.the-wine-market.com
Creative menu, unpretentious setting.

How2GetAround

Charm City Circulator
www.charmcitycirculator.com

2FunFestivals

HonFest
www.honfest.net

Kinetic Sculpture Race
www.avam.org/kinetic-sculpture-race/index.shtml

4MoreInfo

Visit Baltimore
1.877.BALTIMORE
www.baltimore.org

By Hope S. Philbrick

Baltimore, Maryland is a place that deserves to be explored over the leisurely course of a week or longer. Which is not to say it wouldn’t make a great weekend getaway—it definitely would—but in that case you might linger in a specific neighborhood.

In researching this story I explored nine of Baltimore’s distinct neighborhoods in three days, with an itinerary that emphasized restaurants. In total I visited nearly two dozen restaurants, which meant literally snatching one bite here, a sip there and running (sometimes in pouring rain) from café to bistro to coffee shop to diner to brewery to eatery. Often, I rushed out a door mid-swallow in order to make my next appointment. My trip was fun, but it’s not what I recommend and certainly not what Baltimore deserves.

I still regret certain unfinished dishes, things that were fabulously tasty but that I lacked the time and sufficient stomach capacity to savor. Despite the frenetic pace of my visit, I left Baltimore with a very favorable impression. It’s a picturesque, walkable, historic city with a genuinely friendly personality. (As a testament to the sincerity of folks’ friendliness, let me point out that during my whirlwind tour I made several new friends with whom I remain in touch months later. While I’m a nice enough person, forming true bonds isn’t something that routinely happens for me as a journalist racing through a city on assignment.) I look forward to returning to Baltimore, hopefully soon, to visit my new friends and to explore its treasures at a more relaxed pace.

Taste

Baltimore’s neighborhoods each have their own unique essence. Some transitions are dramatic – you probably won’t find too many folks wandering the sidewalks wearing pink bouffant wigs in Mount Vernon, but you very well may in Hampden. (Those wigs? It’s all in good fun.) In most cases the lines between neighborhoods blur along the edges so it’s possible to cross into a new one without realizing it immediately, but odds are you’ll sense the differences soon enough. And if not, so what? Throughout Baltimore the people are unpretentious and laid-back.

In Baltimore’s Hampden neighborhood, pink wigs aren’t de rigeur but they do make things interesting. Credit: Visit Baltimore

The same is true of Baltimore restaurants: Snootiness is not on the menu. Even the finest establishments behave like comfortable local hangouts with regulars known by name. There’s a strong sense of pride in local, non-chain businesses.

Baltimore’s proximity to the Chesapeake Bay certainly influences local menus. Crab and seafood is so commonplace that you’d have a hard time finding a restaurant without it on the menu. (Barring an allergy, I can’t fathom why you’d want to.) Seafood reigns, but it’s far from predictable. Many restaurants throughout Baltimore are infusing classic ingredients and traditional recipes with new creativity and showcasing seasonal, local produce.

Funky to hip, homey to chic, classic to inventive, trendy to traditional to unexpected, Baltimore’s restaurant scene boasts a diverse range of dining options that promise the culinary explorer a tasty adventure.

For my take on individual restaurants, scroll down to the Where2Eat section.

Explore

Beyond restaurants, Baltimore boasts shops, hotels and more than 130 attractions to visit. Because things are in close proximity to one another, Baltimore is easy to navigate on foot. But you can also hop onto the Charm City Circulator, a free service running 21 new hybrid shuttle buses on three routes from early morning to late night, seven days a week.

Baltimore has long been considered a historic city, but in 2009 it was officially designated a National Heritage Area in recognition of its distinctive natural, cultural, historic and scenic resources. Baltimore tells a unique American story. What more could you expect of the home of Edgar Allen Poe?

Two key attractions celebrate the National Anthem. The Star-Spangled Banner Flag House (circa 1793) is where Mary Pickersgill stitched the flag that inspired the lyrics. Visit to learn about the feisty seamstress, the wool flag with 15 stars and 15 stripes, and to tour a historic house filled with original early-19th Century objects—though the quaint house is so well maintained that you might find yourself imagining how your own furniture might fit in it. Fort McHenry, the only area of the National Park System that’s designated both a National Monument and Historic Shrine, inspired Francis Scott Key to pen the National Anthem during the War of 1812.

A kinetic sculpture of a pink poodle on display inside The American Visionary Art Museum Credit: Visit Baltimore

Respecting history doesn’t mean ignoring more modern contributions. “Everyone has a story and a valid perspective,” says Pete Hilsee, director of communications for the American Visionary Art Museum, which exhibits art produced by self-taught individuals. These folks may lack formal training, but that doesn’t mean you should dust off your third-grade crayon drawing and mail it in. Displayed works are impressive and surprisingly moving.

At the National Aquarium young attendees are fascinated by the jelly fish exhibit. Credit: National Aquarium

The National Aquarium is Baltimore’s leading attraction. Housing more than 16,500 aquatic animals, its mission is to “provide transforming experiences that encourage people to enjoy, respect, and protect the aquatic world.” Educational exhibits like “Jellies: Oceans Out of Balance” explain science in a way that appeals to children and adults plus offer steps we can all take to help improve the health of ocean waters.

Eclectic boutique shops abound in Baltimore’s Hampden neighborhood, including Breathe Books. Credit: Hope S. Philbrick

Boutique stores with enticing merchandise abound in Baltimore; many bear inventive names like Babe, Breathe Books, Whimsy, Ladybugs & Fireflies and In Watermelon Sugar. SoBotanical, which opened in 1986, is Baltimore’s first aromatherapy bar. Ma Petite Shoe sells fashionable shoes alongside mouth-satisfying chocolates and thus was named “Best Post-Breakup Oasis” in 2003 by Baltimore Magazine. “Each shop is a celebration of the entrepreneurial spirit of its owner,” says Denise Whiting, owner of Hon Café and founder of HonFest. That most boutiques are housed in re-purposed buildings also celebrates and helps preserve Baltimore’s charm.

Festivals add quirky fun to the already interesting daily life in Baltimore. HonFest is an annual celebration of working women. Participants vying for the Best Hon title don 60s-era bouffant wigs, bright eye shadow, spandex and leopard print while local musicians and artists entertain. The annual Kinetic Sculpture Race sets wacky human-powered works of art on a course traversing land, mud and deep water. Prizes based on art and engineering are awarded, but the most coveted trophies are for placing “Mediocre” (right in middle) and “Next-to-Last” (self explanatory) during the race. Just reading through the spectator rules (e.g., “be sure to remove lens cap from camera before serious picture taking”) conveys this is a town that takes care of its own and values fun.

If America is a melting pot then Baltimore is the flavorful concentration of some of its sweetest ingredients: diverse ethnicity, harmonious community, significant history, creative invention and organic progression. A city comprised of neighborhoods, its small town vibe earned it the nickname “Smalltimore.” But a visit will leave a big impression.

If You Go

Where2Stay

Admiral Fell Inn
Historic Fell’s Point
888 S. Broadway
410.522.7377
www.harbormagic.com
Rates from $149

Baltimore Marriott Waterfront
Harbor East neighborhood
700 Aliceanna St.
410.385.3000
www.baltimoremarriottwaterfront.com
Rates from $209

Brookshire Suites
Inner Harbor neighborhood
120 E. Lombard St.
410.625.1300
www.harbormagic.com
Rates from $99

Pier 5 Hotel
Inner Harbor neighborhood
711 Eastern Ave.
410.539.2000
www.harbormagic.com
Rates from $179

Scarborough Fair B&B
Federal Hill neighborhood
1 E. Montgomery St.
410.837.0010
www.scarboroughfairbandb.com
Rates vary by room, season and package selection; call for details.

What2Do

American Visionary Art Museum
Inner Harbor neighborhood
800 Key Hwy.
410.244.1900
www.avam.org
Showcases original works by self-taught artists.

Fort McHenry
Southeast of the Inner Harbor neighborhood
2400 E. Fort Ave.
410.962.4290
www.nps.gov/fomc/index.htm
Birthplace of the National Anthem.

National Aquarium
Inner Harbor neighborhood
501 E. Pratt St., Pier 3
410.576.3800
www.aqua.org
Baltimore’s most popular attraction boasts hundreds of exhibits and more than 16,500 aquatic animals.

Reginald F. Lewis Museum of Maryland African American History & Culture
Inner Harbor neighborhood
830 E. Pratt St.
443.263.1800
www.AfricanAmericanCulture.org
Highlights the history and accomplishments of Maryland’s African Americans.

Star Spangled Banner Flag House
Inner Harbor neighborhood
844 E. Pratt St.
410.837.1793
www.flaghouse.org
The 1793 home of seamstress Mary Pickersgill, who made the famous U.S. flag that flew over Fort McHenry.

USS Constellation Museum
Inner Harbor neighborhood
301 E. Pratt St., Pier 1
410.539.1797
www.historicships.org
Explore a historic ship.

Washington Monument and Museum at Mount Vernon Place
Mount Vernon neighborhood
699 N. Charles St.
410.396.1049
www.museumsusa.org/museums/info/1167087
The original Washington Monument, completed in 1829, predates the monument in Washington DC. Climb 228 steps for a $1 donation.

Where2Eat

Believe it or not, these are just a few of the restaurants I visited during my whirlwind introduction to Baltimore. But these made the strongest impression:

Aldo’s Ristorante Italiano
Little Italy neighborhood
306 S. High St.
410.727.0700
www.aldositaly.com
If this isn’t the best Italian food you’ve ever tasted, then you must have an Italian grandmother who should open a restaurant, stat.

Creme brulee and cappuccino at B&O American Brassiere. Credit: B&O American Brassiere

B&O American Brassiere
Downtown Baltimore
2 N. Charles St.
443-692-6172
www.bandorestaurant.com
Quality food, expertly prepared.

The Brewer’s Art
Mount Vernon neighborhood
1106 N. Charles St.
410.547.6925
www.thebrewersart.com
Wet your whistle on these finely crafted microbrews; the sampler makes it easy to taste each variety.

Café Hon
Hampden neighborhood
1002 W. 36th St.
410.243.1133
www.cafehon.com
Local treasure serves classic diner fare.

City Café
Mount Vernon neighborhood
1001 Cathedral St.
410.593.4252
www.citycafebaltimore.com
While in Baltimore order crab at least once. This is a great place to get it.

Corks
Federal Hill neighborhood
1026 S. Charles St.
410.752.3810
www.corksrestaurant.com
Trust this chef to prepare just what you crave.

Max’s Taphouse
Fell’s Point neighborhood
737 S. Broadway
410.675.6297
www.maxs.com
Baltimore’s largest beer selection boasts 140 on tap and over 1,200 by the bottle.

Milan
Straddles Harbor East and Little Italy neighborhoods
1000 Eastern Ave.
410.685.6111
www.onemilan.com
If you miss the lobster mac & cheese, I can’t forgive you.

Miss Shirley’s Café
Inner Harbor neighborhood
750 E. Pratt St.
410.528.5373
www.missshirleys.com
If you wake up with a sweet tooth, get breakfast here.

Servers keeping busy at Pazo. Credit:Pazo

Pazo Restaurant
Harbor East neighborhood
1425 Aliceanna St.
410.534.7296
www.pazorestaurant.com
Upscale fare with Mediterranean influences.

Pitango Gelato
Fell’s Point neighborhood
802 S. Broadway
410.236.0741
www.pitangogelato.com
Tasty, organic treat.

Ryleigh’s Oyster
Federal Hill neighborhood
36 E. Cross St.
410.539.2093
www.ryleighs.com
Quality ingredients, confidently prepared.

Sascha’s 527 Cafe dining room. Credit: Sascha’s

Sascha’s 527 Café
Mount Vernon neighborhood
527 N. Charles St.
410.539.8880
www.saschas.com
Eclectic menu, swanky setting.

Sotto Sopra
Mount Vernon neighborhood
405 N. Charles St.
410.625.0534
www.sottosoprainc.com
Trust that the special is worthy of your attention.

Spoons
Federal Hill neighborhood
24 E. Cross St.
410.539.8395
www.spoonscoffeecafe.com
Relax with a cup of coffee and don’t try too hard to resist the pastries.

Talara
Harbor East neighborhood
615 President St.
410.528.9883
www.talarabaltimore.com
Ceviche at its best.

Taverna Corvino
Federal Hill neighborhood
1117 S. Charles St.
410.727.1212
www.tavernacorvino.com
Classic Italian gets a modern twist.

The Wine Market
Locust Point neighborhood
921 E. Fort Ave., Suite 135
410.244.6166
www.the-wine-market.com
Creative menu, unpretentious setting.

How2GetAround

Charm City Circulator
www.charmcitycirculator.com

2FunFestivals

HonFest
www.honfest.net

Kinetic Sculpture Race
www.avam.org/kinetic-sculpture-race/index.shtml

4MoreInfo

Visit Baltimore
1.877.BALTIMORE
www.baltimore.org

Top photo: Reginald F. Lewis Museum of Maryland African American History & Culture Credit: Visit Baltimore

Where2Stay

It’s up to you. Generally speaking, the hotels closer to the National Mall and other attractions tend to be more expensive, and hotels a short train ride from downtown (say, in D.C.’s Chinatown) tend to cost less.

What2Do

There’s plenty. Don’t try to do everything in one day. You won’t make it.

Bureau of Engraving and Printing
at 14th and C Streets NW
www.moneyfactory.gov/home.html
202.874.2330, or toll-free at 866.874.2330

Hours: The visitor center is open Monday through Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., though the doors close at 3 p.m. Tours are free, and you’ll need a ticket during peak season (March-August). Tickets are first-come first-serve and are given out starting at 8 a.m. at the ticket booth on Raoul Wallenberg Place.

International Spy Museum
800 F Street NW
202.EYE.SPY.U
www.spymuseum.org

Hours: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. through Sept. 6. After that, the museum’s generally open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Call or check the website before you head over, since there are some different hours and closings around holidays.
Admission: $18 (ages 12-64), $17 (ages 65 and older, members of the military of intelligence community), $15 (ages 5-11). Tickets to “Spy in the City” (meant for ages 10 and older) or “Operation Spy” (for 12 and older) cost extra.

The Kennedy Center
2700 F St., NW, at the intersection of New Hampshire Avenue NW and Rock Creek Parkway
www.kennedy-center.org/programs/millennium
202.416.8340

Hours: Free concerts are every day at 6 p.m. on the Millennium Stage. No tickets needed! For a free, guided tour of the building, go to the tour desk on Level A. Tours are 10 a.m.-5 p.m. weekdays and 10 a.m.-1 p.m. weekends.

Lincoln Memorial
www.nps.gov/linc/index.htm
Hours: Open 24 hours a day. Rangers are on duty from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.

Memorials by Moonlight
www.washingtonwalks.com/tours/memorials-moonlight.shtml

Meet at the Thomas Jefferson Memorial, near the accessible entrance sign. Tours begin at 6:30 p.m. and run through Labor Day.
Cost: $20 per person, and bring cash. Kids 3 and younger are free, but remember that it’s a three-hour walking tour.

National Air & Space Museum
Sixth and Independence Avenue SW
202.633.2214
www.nasm.si.edu

Hours: Open every day except Dec. 25. 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. (March 29-Sept. 5), 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. other times of the year. Call or check the website before you head over, since the museum sometimes has early closings because of special events.

National Museum of Natural History
10th Street and Constitution Avenue NW
202.633.1000
www.mnh.si.edu

Hours: Open every day except Dec. 25. 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. through Labor Day, and 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. other times of the year. Call or check the website before you head over, since the museum sometimes cancels its extended hours because of special events.
Admission is free, but there’s a charge for tickets to butterfly pavilion. To buy tickets, go to www.butterflies.si.edu/tickets/index.htm

The National Zoo (officially, the Smithsonian National Zoological Park)
3001 Connecticut Avenue NW
http://nationalzoo.si.edu

Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. every day (April through October), 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. every day (November through March).
202.633.4800 (a recorded zoo information line)

Rock Creek Park
5200 Glover Road NW (this is the address for the nature center and planetarium)
202.895.6070
www.nps.gov/rocr/index.htm

Hours: The park is open during daylight hours. The nature center and planetarium are open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday, except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s days. Planetarium shows are free, and tickets are available at the nature center’s information desk.

Tidal Basin Paddle Boats
1501 Maine Avenue SW
202.479.2426
www.tidalbasinpaddleboats.com

Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (last boat at 5 p.m.). Open seven days a week March 15 through Labor Day, and Wednesday through Sunday Labor Day through Columbus Day weekend. Two-passenger boats are $10 an hour and four-passenger boats are $18 an hour.

U.S. Capitol
www.visitthecapitol.gov

The capitol is open 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. It’s closed Inauguration Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. Reserve free tour passes online at visitthecapitol.gov or through the office of either your senator or representative.

Vietnam Veterans Memorial
www.nps.gov/vive/index.htm
Hours: Open 24 hours a day. Rangers are on duty from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.

Washington Monument
www.nps.gov/wamo/index.htm

Hours: Open every day except July 4 and Dec. 25. Hours are 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. May 31 through Sept. 6 and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. the rest of the year. Admission is free, but tickets are required and are given out starting at 8:30 a.m. People often line up well before then, so your best bet may be to reserve tickets (www.recreation.gov/tourParkDetail.do?contractCode=NRSO&parkId=77811) and pick them up at will call. Each ticket will have a $1.50 service charge.

The White House
1600 Pennsylvania Avenue
www.whitehouse.gov/about/tours-and-events
202.456.7041

The visitor center is at the corner of 15th and E Streets.
Hours: Tours are available 7:30 to 11 a.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays, 7:30 a.m. to noon on Fridays, and 7:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays. They’re free and self-guided. To get tickets, e-mail your congressman with the date you’d like to visit (offer a few dates, in case your first choice is booked). You have to request tickets at least a month in advance. Travel light – you can’t bring your purse, camera, stroller, and several other items. Check the website for details.

Where2Eat

The museums and the U.S. Capitol’s visitor center have café’s, and offerings vary from fast food (at Air & Space, for example) to cedar-planked roasted salmon (National Museum of the American Indian). Or bring sandwiches and grab a bench at Haupt garden outside Smithsonian castle.

How2GetThere

The Metro is by far the easiest way to get around D.C. There are public parking garages around the District, but save yourself the aggravation. Go to Metro’s website (www.wmata.com), plug in your destination and the site will tell you the route and one-way fare. The Smithsonian station (on either the blue or orange lines) will put you right on the Mall.

By Cindy Murphy-Tofig

Vacations with kids can be mellow, like a walk along a nature path. Or they can be packed with one adventure after another.

In Washington, D.C. vacations can be both. And if you have older kids, you can throw in a little stealth as well.

The International Spy Museum is a great place to take older kids, particularly those who like gadgets. The museum has hundreds of cameras, bugs, weapons, and other technology. From Navajo code talkers to the Red Scare to Robert Hanssen, there’s a broad look at how much nations rely on intelligence. Become an operative during an “Operation Spy” adventure, or embark on a “Spy in the City” mission that takes you around the District as you try to find a traitor.

For a more low-tech adventure, pack sunblock and snacks and head to Rock Creek Park. Founded in 1890, Rock Creek is the oldest urban park maintained by the National Park Service. Join a ranger-led tour, bike into Maryland, or learn about the night sky at the National Park Service’s only planetarium. Or just wander along one of the blazed hiking trails that wind around the park’s 1,754 acres. Better yet, hit the trail on horseback. The stables are near the nature center. The younger set can go on a pony ride, and the older ones (you have to be at least 12) can take a guided trail ride.

Gazelles at the National Zoo Credit Eric Kilby

Another easy place to entertain everyone is the National Zoo. Download a zoo map before you head out; it’ll help you plan what you want to see, since the zoo’s pretty spread out (163 acres). Try to hit the popular outdoor spots, like the panda habitat, first thing in the morning. As the sun gets hotter, duck into the Reptile Discovery Center, Small Mammal House, Bird House, or one of the other enclosed exhibits. The zoo’s also hilly in some places, so bring a stroller in case your smallest family member tires out.

Look up as you walk down the path toward the reptile house. You might see orangutans as they swing along the O Line, a series of plastic-covered cables attached to towers. The orangutans use the line to travel from their main home in the Great Ape House to the Think Tank, an indoor exhibit where you can observe the orangutans and learn about their thought processes.

And if you can, hit the grocery store the day before for sandwich fixings, snacks and drinks and bring a picnic. There are picnic tables over by the reptile house, or just find a spot on a grassy area. It’ll make for a nice afternoon, plus you’ll save a little money along the way.

You can also save some money—and dream a lot—during a free tour at the Bureau of Engraving and Printing. The tour includes a short film and lasts only about 45 minutes, so the little ones shouldn’t get too antsy. Still, it’s long enough for inquisitive visitors to ask about the life span of an average dollar (about 21 months), or learn that paper money isn’t actually made out of paper (it’s made of cotton and linen). And really, who wouldn’t want to look down on the production floor and sheets of money practically flying off a machine? After the tour, head toward the gift shop and pick up copies of the word search and other worksheets; they’ll help keep the kids occupied during downtime on the Metro.

Chinatown Metro Station – The colorful Friendship Arch, located at 7th and F Sts. NW, entices visitors and residents to sample the fabulous flavors of Washington, DC’s Chinatown. Credit: Destination DC

Where2Stay

It’s up to you. Generally speaking, the hotels closer to the National Mall and other attractions tend to be more expensive, and hotels a short train ride from downtown (say, in D.C.’s Chinatown) tend to cost less.

What2Do

The National Zoo (officially, the Smithsonian National Zoological Park)
3001 Connecticut Avenue NW
http://nationalzoo.si.edu/
Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. every day (April through October), 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. every day (November through March).
202.633.4800 (a recorded zoo information line)

International Spy Museum
800 F Street NW
202.EYE.SPY.U
www.spymuseum.org
Hours: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. through Sept. 6. After that, the museum’s generally open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Call or check the website before you head over, since there are some different hours and closings around holidays.
Admission: $18 (ages 12-64), $17 (ages 65 and older, members of the military of intelligence community), $15 (ages 5-11). Tickets to “Spy in the City” (meant for ages 10 and older) or “Operation Spy” (for 12 and older) cost extra.

Rock Creek Park
5200 Glover Road NW (this is the address for the nature center and planetarium)
202.895.6070
www.nps.gov/rocr/index.htm
Hours: The park is open during daylight hours. The nature center and planetarium are open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday, except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s days. Planetarium shows are free, and tickets are available at the nature center’s information desk.

Bureau of Engraving and Printing
at 14th and C Streets NW
www.moneyfactory.gov/home.html
202.874.2330, or toll-free at 866.874.2330
Hours: The visitor center is open Monday through Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., though the doors close at 3 p.m. Tours are free, and you’ll need a ticket during peak season (March-August). Tickets are first-come first-serve and are given out starting at 8 a.m. at the ticket booth on Raoul Wallenberg Place.

The Kennedy Center
2700 F St., NW, at the intersection of New Hampshire Avenue NW and Rock Creek Parkway
www.kennedy-center.org/programs/millennium
202.416.8340
Hours: Free concerts are every day at 6 p.m. on the Millennium Stage. No tickets needed! For a free, guided tour of the building, go to the tour desk on Level A. Tours are 10 a.m.-5 p.m. weekdays and 10 a.m.-1 p.m. weekends.

The White House
1600 Pennsylvania Avenue
www.whitehouse.gov/about/tours-and-events
202.456.7041
The visitor center is at the corner of 15th and E Streets.
Hours: Tours are available 7:30 to 11 a.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays, 7:30 a.m. to noon on Fridays, and 7:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays. They’re free and self-guided. To get tickets, e-mail your congressman with the date you’d like to visit (offer a few dates, in case your first choice is booked). You have to request tickets at least a month in advance. Travel light – you can’t bring your purse, camera, stroller, and several other items. Check the website for details.

How2GetThere

Metro, Metro, Metro. Use the trip planner on Metro’s website to learn how to get somewhere, and how much it’ll cost one way. www.wmata.com

Top photo: International Spy Museum. Credit: Destination DC

Read The Capital With Kids – Part 1

August 24, 2010 – Has the recession cut into your vacation plans? Could you really use a getaway right now but feel too squeezed to even think about one? What if you could find a deep discount on a vacation rental in a fabulous location but the only catch was that you must depart soon? Real soon?

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By Pamela Irving

When Catherine Hyldgaard decided to spring clean her home last April, she realized that her body might benefit from some spring-cleaning as well. She had participated in a weekend health retreat and had seen the benefits, but wanted to do something longer lasting with longer term results.

Like all good citizens of modern life, she Googled the Internet to do her research and was surprised to see a health retreat offered so close to home called Abundant Life Wellness Center. She filled in the pre-registration form, spoke to the program manager about her health needs and when confirmed ‘good to go’ decided to take her partner Philip along with her.

“We are both in the ‘fiftyish’ age bracket and weight had somehow accumulated over the years that was stubborn to shift. We needed a big change, not just a few modifications, a few calories dropped. We had tried all that and nothing worked,” says Catherine from her home in Beaumont, a small town in Alberta where her passion for horses keeps her active on the weekends and her professional life of financial advisor for Primerica has her full attention during the week. “Philip works with me and somehow we never made time for us as a couple to focus on our health, yet what could be more important?” asks Catherine.

Catherine and Philip feel much better and are continuing to lose weight and improve after their health retreat.

Together they attended a 14-day retreat. Catherine lost seven and half pounds while there, with another six pounds since then and another 35 to go. “It’s working for us. It was fast at first, and now it is slow and steady.”

Since the retreat, Catherine and Philip have changed their lifestyle and their eating habits. “We used to eat the North American diet – high in sugar and carbs, now it is more like the Mediterranean diet,” says Catherine who adds that she does not have cravings any more.

“We eat a lot of fresh fruits and vegetables and if we want a treat, we go for a vegetarian pizza. We don’t feel like we are missing anything, except extra weight, and we have gained a new focus in life-vibrant health. We are also closer as a couple. We did not expect so much to come out of 14 days,” says Catherine who says she has more energy now than she did ten years ago.

“A huge and unexpected bonus is, the asthma I had for 17 years is gone and I no longer need medication for it, with my doctor’s blessing.”

With many, many happy clients, Abundant Life Health Retreats are rebranding as Fresh Start, but will continue to offer health restoration retreats to aid weight loss and wellness at a new location: the eco-friendly Ocean Resort, Vancouver Island’s Spiritual and Wellness Retreat Centre, accessible by air, ferry and car.

“We are very excited about this move, both for our clients and for the future of Fresh Start. The Ocean Resort is the perfect venue to offer retreats that require a relaxing, private environment, with excellent facilities for spa treatments,” says Ania Kastashchuk, Program Manager for Fresh Start, with the first retreat in the new location to be offered August 31, 2010.

Ania and Vasili Kastashchuk had been hosting the retreats in Alberta since 2005, completing over 125 retreats serving over 650 clients and are making the move to Ocean Resort because of the preferred facility and location.

Fresh Start is a health restoration retreat focusing on advanced whole body detoxification, weight loss and rejuvenation, during five, ten and 14-day residential programs.

The fresh smile of Ania Kastashchuk Program Director of Fresh Start Health Retreats Credit: Vasili Kastashchuk

“We use basic health principles and combine health lectures, emotional wellness with nutritional support and knowledge,” explains Ania. “Simple principles that work.”

The new Fresh Start team consists of a Naturopathic Doctor for onsite consultations, massage therapy, Reiki, reflexology and other spa services using the highest quality organic or all-natural products and ingredients.

Ocean Resort on Oyster Bay

Ocean Resort, located on Vancouver Island’s Oyster Bay, overlooks Desolation Sound and the Coastal Mountain range. The resort, established in 2008, boasts 28 well-appointed rooms and is uniquely positioned to host the Fresh Start wellness experience, with direct flights to the Comox Valley airport on major airlines.

“Guests can enjoy an environment that is both welcoming and supportive. Experience long walks on the beach; watch the resident eagle and other wildlife from the comfort of a beach chair. Fresh Start staff is serious about helping to improve well-being. This new setting will inspire wellness to a new level,” says Ania Kastashchuk.

Catherine and Philip are already planning a 5-day ‘refresher’ retreat at the new location. “It’s good to get inspired and keep motivated. Also, we can’t wait to see the resort and Ania and Vasili again. They helped us so much the first time round.”

The first Fresh Start retreat at Ocean Resort is offered August 31, 2010.

For Fresh Start Retreat Inquiries or to book a program go to www.HealthRetreat.ca

Top photo: Fresh Start Health Retreats will be offered at Ocean Resort near Campbell River, Vancouver Island. Photo credit: Cameron Stone

By Cindy Murphy-Tofig

Summer in Washington D.C. means steam rising from the sidewalks and tourists standing on the wrong side of the Metro escalators (stand on the right, walk on the left).

But it also means that many of the museums and monuments are open later, giving you plenty of time to visit dinosaurs, fly to the moon, or take in a view from the tallest structure in the District. Plus it’s an easy way to sneak some education into a family vacation.

Everyone in the family can be entertained all day — and into the night — along the National Mall. Make sure everyone has comfortable sneakers before you head out, though, since it’s about two miles from the U.S. Capitol to the Lincoln Memorial.

School-age children will get a good dose of American history (and will dig the cordless headsets) during the U.S. Capitol tour. The youngest in your crowd might get fidgety during the hour-long guided tour of the building, but would enjoy walking among the statues in the Capitol’s visitor center. Each state has two statutes at the Capitol, and about two dozen are in the visitor center.

As you walk further up the Mall (heading toward the Washington Monument) you’ll have your choice of museums to visit.

The Lincoln Memorial Credit Destination DC

The whole gang will love the National Museum of Natural History. The younger set will love seeing the Triceratops and others on display in the hall dedicated to dinosaurs and fossils (if you can get them away from the mammoth elephant in the museum’s rotunda, that is). Toward the back of the exhibit is a room of scientists working on identifying various fossils. You can watch them, but don’t tap on the glass and disturb the mammals at work.

Upstairs, if you can get the kiddies to sit still, butterflies will land on them inside the live butterfly pavilion. And down the hall, for a shot of bling, check out the 45.52-carat Hope Diamond.

Next door to Natural History is the National Museum of American History, where kids can explore real objects connected to what they’ve been learning in school. There’s a pocket compass Meriwether Lewis bought before embarking on his historic expedition with William Clark, and the flag that inspired Francis Scott Key to write the Star Spangled Banner. There are plenty of fun uniquely American artifacts as well, such as songwriter Irving Berlin’s typewriter, a 1955 station wagon, and a plaster egg prop made for the movie “Alien.”

For a real outer space experience, head to the National Air & Space Museum on the opposite side of the Mall. Little ones will love making a ball float in a stream of air or trying some of the other activities in the How Things Fly exhibit on the main floor, while bigger kids and adults will enjoy artifacts as diverse as the Apollo Lunar Module, astronaut John Glenn’s spacesuit, and a reproduction of the Wright brothers’ glider.

Nancy Barone of Connecticut said the diversity of the exhibits was great for her children, ages 5, 7, and 11.

“There was enough hands-on stuff to keep Cam [the 5-year-old] interested, and enough intellectual challenge for the other two,” she said.

For a little downtime outside, wander through the sculpture garden at the National Gallery of Art, take the tykes for a ride on the carousel near Smithsonian Castle, or find a bench along the Mall and people watch.

Paddle boats at the Jefferson Memorial. Credit Destination DC

Ready for round two? Take the older kids down to the Tidal Basin and rent a paddleboat. Afterwards, walk over to the Thomas Jefferson Memorial (you’ll be able to see it from the boat) and join the Memorials by Moonlight tour. The guided tour’s about three hours long and covers memorials to Abraham Lincoln, Thomas Jefferson, and Franklin Delano Roosevelt. Other stops along the tour include the World War II Memorial, the Vietnam Veterans Memorial, and the Korean War Veterans Memorial.

If that’s a little too ambitious for your crowd, reserve tickets for a late afternoon visit to the Washington Monument and enjoy the view from the tallest building in the District.

If You Go

What2Do

There’s plenty. Don’t try to do everything in one day. You won’t make it.

Lincoln Memorial
www.nps.gov/linc/index.htm
Hours: Open 24 hours a day. Rangers are on duty from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.

An evening view of the Jefferson Memorial. Credit Destination DC

Memorials by Moonlight
www.washingtonwalks.com/tours/memorials-moonlight.shtml

Meet at the Thomas Jefferson Memorial, near the accessible entrance sign. Tours begin at 6:30 p.m. and run through Labor Day.
Cost: $20 per person, and bring cash. Kids 3 and younger are free, but remember that it’s a three-hour walking tour.

National Air & Space Museum
Sixth and Independence Avenue SW
202-633-2214
www.nasm.si.edu

Hours: Open every day except Dec. 25. 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. (March 29-Sept. 5), 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. other times of the year. Call or check the website before you head over, since the museum sometimes has early closings because of special events.

National Museum of Natural History
10th Street and Constitution Avenue NW
202-633-1000
www.mnh.si.edu

Hours: Open every day except Dec. 25. 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. through Labor Day, and 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. other times of the year. Call or check the website before you head over, since the museum sometimes cancels its extended hours because of special events.
Admission is free, but there’s a charge for tickets to butterfly pavilion. To buy tickets, go to www.butterflies.si.edu/tickets/index.htm

Tidal Basin Paddle Boats
1501 Maine Avenue SW
202-479-2426
www.tidalbasinpaddleboats.com

Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (last boat at 5 p.m.). Open seven days a week March 15 through Labor Day, and Wednesday through Sunday Labor Day through Columbus Day weekend. Two-passenger boats are $10 an hour and four-passenger boats are $18 an hour.

U.S. Capitol
www.visitthecapitol.gov

The capitol is open 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. It’s closed Inauguration Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. Reserve free tour passes online at visitthecapitol.gov or through the office of either your senator or representative.

Vietnam Veterans Memorial
www.nps.gov/vive/index.htm
Hours: Open 24 hours a day. Rangers are on duty from 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.

Washington Monument
www.nps.gov/wamo/index.htm

Hours: Open every day except July 4 and Dec. 25. Hours are 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. May 31 through Sept. 6 and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. the rest of the year. Admission is free, but tickets are required and are given out starting at 8:30 a.m. People often line up well before then, so your best bet may be to reserve tickets (www.recreation.gov/tourParkDetail.do?contractCode=NRSO&parkId=77811) and pick them up at will call. Each ticket will have a $1.50 service charge.

Where2Eat

The museums and the U.S. Capitol’s visitor center have café’s, and offerings vary from fast food (at Air & Space, for example) to cedar-planked roasted salmon (National Museum of the American Indian). Or bring sandwiches and grab a bench at Haupt garden outside Smithsonian castle.

How2GetThere

The Metro is by far the easiest way to get around D.C. There are public parking garages around the District, but save yourself the aggravation. Go to Metro’s website (www.wmata.com), plug in your destination and the site will tell you the route and one-way fare. The Smithsonian station (on either the blue or orange lines) will put you right on the Mall.

Top photo: Inside the Capitol Dome. Credit Destination DC

By Bobby L. Hickman

If this summer’s anticipated hit movie Eat Pray Love leaves you ready to embark on your own international adventure for spiritual fulfillment, there is help. Several travel agents specialize in spiritually-oriented travel packages – and one even offers a trip built around the best-selling book behind the summer blockbuster.

In fact, the spiritual travel field has been growing for many years. USA Today ranks faith tourism – which includes religious pilgrimages and more esoteric spiritual destinations – as one of the top 10 travel trends for 2010. Faith tourism has annual revenues of $18 billion and 300 million participants globally, the newspaper reports.

Interest in unconventional spiritual journeys is getting a boost both from increasing interest from baby boomers, exposure in such venues as the Oprah Winfrey Show; and the new Julia Roberts movie. In fact, Divine Travels in Portland, Oregon offered a group travel package this summer built around Eat Pray Love.

Susan Shumsky of Divine Travels, said her tours are oriented towards metaphysical, New Age and “spiritual but not religious” destinations. “I’ve been doing retreats to sacred, spiritual locations since 1989,” she said. Those spots include Mt. Shasta, California; the Tetons in Wyoming; Sedona, Arizona; and the Sonoran Desert near Tucson: “places with a powerful spiritual vortex and pure energy.”

Concerning the Eat Pray Love trip last summer, Shumsky said she received positive feedback from those who made the journey. “It focused on the Bali portion of Elizabeth Gilbert’s book,” Shumsky said. “They worked with her actual mentors and ate in the same restaurant that she wrote about.”

Shumsky said she began doing international destinations in 2001 when she led a group to Kumba Mela in India, where 100 million people take part in “the largest gathering of humanity in the world.” Her groups returned there in 2007 and 2010 as “pilgrims and holy people come together on the banks of the Ganges River,” she added. Other trips have included Machu Picchu in Peru and a yearly tour of sacred sites in the Andes with Andean shaman Mallku – which last year included a visit to Easter Island. Most international trips last at least 10 days.

“I’m not just doing travel,” Shumsky said. “If it does not have a spiritual component, I’m not interested in doing it.”

With the economy slow, Shumsky said, all segments of the travel industry are hurting. “During a bull market, people will be traveling more,” she said. “But right now, they’re scared and not traveling.”

Shumsky said that in recent years, spirituality has “become more mainstream, which helps all of us.” With large chains like Barnes & Noble and Borders carrying spiritual books, “It’s been hard for metaphysical bookstores to stay in business,” she said. “But in general, it’s a good thing that people are more aware of it.”

Shumsky said Divine Travels is “helping people have experiences they would not normally have. These are powerful, life-transforming journeys to places “that are conducive to meditation, places with strong spiritual vibrations. You could do a retreat in downtown Chicago, for example, but you would not have the vibrations that lead to deep spiritual experiences.”

Helen Tomei, who heads Sacred Earth Journeys in Burnaby, British Columbia, said that over the past seven years, “I have definitely noticed a trend for people looking for a deeper meaning to their travel experiences. Rather than just sightseeing, they want to know the spiritual meanings and deeper truths of, for example, the Mayan, Incan or Egyptian Temples that they are visiting.” She added travelers are “interested in the ancient spiritual wisdom that our ancestors once shared thousands of years ago, and what is relevant to our lives today.”

She said her trips are well received by clients. “Our journeys seem to be filling a need,” Tomei added. One client said of a recent tour, “These were no mere piles of rocks we visited, but places to receive and share teachings, interpreted with loving patience by a true Mayan insider devoted to honoring their living presence.”

Tomei has spent her entire career in the travel industry, putting together specialized tours for various destinations and clientele. “After 16 years working for other tour companies, I decided to combine my passion for travel to sacred places and my interest in spirituality and ancient wisdom,” she said, launching Sacred Earth Journeys in 2003. “I saw the trend towards personal growth, spirituality, yoga, meditation and so forth,” Tomei said. “Because those things were already my passion, and I had the travel industry experience, I thought the timing was good for starting my company.”

She added that she is “conscious of making sure that our journey leaders are authentic teachers and guides who really hold our vision and are experts in their field — whether it be ancient indigenous wisdom from Egypt, Mayan knowledge from the Elders, Inca teachings and traditions, or yoga in the true Himalayan tradition, for example.”

Dr. Sheri Rosenthal of Gulfport, Florida, traces the roots of her company, Journeys of the Spirit to a 1999 trip she took with her spiritual advisor. After working through someone else for two years, she launched her firm in 2002. “I was a physician,” she said, “and I still teach, lecture and do workshops. But the journeys are my passion — because of the results we get, which are just unbelievable. And we get a lot of repeat business because of those results.”

Rosenthal said people “are looking to make significant changes in life.” Many people are drawn to spirituality after various life changes, such as divorce, children leaving home or changes in their job situation. “They need more clarity,” she said, “an opportunity to reflect on things that are happening. It’s generally better to get out of their routine to do that,” she continued. “And they can do that better by visiting beautiful sacred sites — whether that site is tied to religion, spirituality in general or a specific tradition.”

She said most of her clients are baby boomers, “but we are also seeing a lot of young people, which is exciting.” She said most women start a spiritual journey around the age of 39; for men, it’s about a decade later. When people are later in life, they start to think: ‘Oh my God, is this all there is to my life? This is not what I signed up for. This can’t be all there is – and if it is, I don’t think I can do this. There’s got to be more.’”

Travel in general is down because of the economy, Rosenthal said. “When the economy shifts again, I think we’ll be seeing more young people.”

Rosenthal said her company offers trips which she personally leads or that other spiritual teachers are leading. “There are lots of areas under the spiritual umbrella,” she noted. Other than sacred sites, “It could be yoga, or creating writing opportunities, which can all be spiritual.” Her trips are typically from six days to two weeks, although they can do longer ones by special request.

Some people may have difficulty finding the time or money to take a long international pilgrimage – Gilbert spent a year on her odyssey — but there are local options in many areas of the United States. For example, Ignatius House near Atlanta, Georgia, is a Jesuit retreat center that offers silent retreats most weekends. More than 2,000 people attend the non-denominational events each year, walking the more than 20 acres of woods and waterfalls along the Chattahoochee River. While remaining silent for almost 48 hours is a challenge for some, I found my visit extremely peaceful. I found the silence not only provides a welcome break from the constant noise of modern life, it also brings an awareness of how much internal chatter we generate on our own.

There are also plenty of spiritual workshops available across the country. However, Rosenthal cautioned, “those are hard to do effectively. People have their cell phones and their computers, and they are not that far removed from their normal lives” when they stay close to home.

“It’s more effective when they are in a different environment, one that may be challenging,” she continued. “It’s an opportunity to explore more deeply. It can take some people several days to unwind and get away from that routine. They need time to open their hearts and their minds.”

Top photo: The Mahabalipuram Shore Temple on the Bay of Bengal, India. Credit: B. Balaji

Story and photos by Lynn DeBruin

The tiny flashlight was pointed downward as I deftly negotiated the dirt and pebble-strewn path toward the hot springs. But my eyes kept drifting high above the trees, at a mesmerizing sky ablaze with a million stars.

It was so dark – and yet so bright – on this moonless night that skinny-dipping at Strawberry Park Hot Springs wasn’t even a worry. It simply was a matter of where to enter the 103-degree waters and which boulder to drape my clothes over for later retrieval.

Thank goodness I wore a white sweater during the winding, 25-minute drive from the hotel through the pine-and-aspen forest above the ski resort. It’d serve as a distant focal point – my foggy lighthouse so to speak – to maintain one’s bearings in the natural pools while my body melted under a nighttime canvas painted with the Big Dipper, Milky Way and no less than six shooting stars.

There are many beautiful places in the world, but few rank as perfect as this idyllic spot high in the northern Rockies, where clothing optional and no children allowed after dark is part of the allure.

Then again, to many, Steamboat Springs already is paradise.

There is the ski resort, with its hundreds of ski-in/ski-out slope-side rooms, its iconic director of skiing, former Olympian Billy Kidd, and of course the famous champagne powder that often falls by the foot on the 165 trails of Mt. Werner.

But unlike Vail, Copper Mountain or Keystone to the south, there also is a real town, 10 minutes away from the slopes, with a historic downtown, rustic as well as fine dining, and even an old-fashioned candy store where everything from Pez dispensers to sugar straws and suckers fill the shelves.

“It’s a town first and foremost,” said former Austin resident Jonathan Hieb, co-owner of Sweet Pea Café on the Yampa River in downtown Steamboat Springs. He called the town, with its 10,000 or so permanent residents, a small community, where everyone has everyone else’s back.

“It’s like-minded people – outdoorsy, healthy, who love good food – and we just happen to have this amazing hill to ski on as an added bonus.”

Hieb’s café used to be a former roadside fruit stand that has been converted to a market and health-conscious restaurant that serves up as much local produce as possible.

“This has been a vision of mine for seven years,” said Hieb, who once franchised Chili’s restaurants in Austin and hated every minute of it. He finally could afford to buy the property when the economy slowed, prices dropped and developers with big plans called wanting to sell. Now he has a menu that features a beet salad, with the towel-rubbed veggies marinated overnight in olive oil, orange juice, rock salt and a touch of truffle oil. “It was probably the wrong time to buy, but I just knew the idea I had was going to work,” he said. “I believed in it.”

The Yampa River is a mecca for tubers, kayakers and fishermen. This photo is taken from the back patio of Café Sweet Pea.

Another former Texan, Donna Downing, calls her new home simply paradise. “You spend so much time in the Yampa Valley and then it’s got you, that old Yampa Valley curse,” she said during one of the town’s many festivals. “It has it all. And the people are wonderful.”

Along the river, new and old sit side by side as kayakers and tubers in all shapes and forms float by.

Set on the river, Sun Pies offers cold beers and fried oysters, and a place for the river runners to crawl up the banks and dry off.

Long-timer Kidd, now 66 and 46 years removed from his silver-medal run at the Innsbruck Olympics. reminded me four months earlier of Steamboat’s unofficial motto during one of his free mountaintop ski clinics. “Come for the powder; stay for the summer,” he boasted. He did many decades ago.

So did Hieb, who sold his BMW seven years ago, bought an old, black truck, tossed in his dog and skis and headed toward Jackson Hole, only to pull into Steamboat Springs at 3 a.m. to rest. “I woke up and there was about a foot of fresh snow. I didn’t even know you could ski here,” he said. He never did make it to Wyoming.

Living it up

While the local rugby tournament is called the Cowpie Classic and one can still find horse and human shampoo next to each other in the Safeway, Steamboat Springs isn’t without some hip hot spots. On a recent Friday night, the Ghost Ranch Bar was pulsating to the sounds of Filthy Children, a funky, seven-member Indie brass band with sexy vocals from Jenny Anderson.

Even the crowd was eclectic, with three cowboys in Wranglers having wandered in after a steak dinner and cattle auction. They stood near a young man with an expensive fitted leather jacket and silky red shirt. The rest of the dance floor was littered with dozens of others in shorts and T-shirts. Instead of a cab or shuttle back to the hotel, Ghost Ranch had its own School of Rock-like black van for delivering guests safely home.

Harwig’s Grill offers a wide range of selections from pheasant to ostrich, with a must-see wine cellar below.

Two blocks away, Harwig’s-L’Apogee offered a fancy dining experience, albeit in a relaxed atmosphere. I chose the chevre leek ravioli appetizer with arugula and a pear vinaigrette balsamic glaze, followed by the pheasant breast with summer squash, haricot verts and a warm, cherry vinaigrette.

But there were plenty of other tempting choices, from the lamb sliders and the grilled Turkish-styled octopus to the ostrich entrée – all accompanied by warm asiago cheese bread.

Tip: Before leaving check out the decadent deserts, take a tour of the wine cellar, with its private dining and cork roof, and view the creations displayed on the walls upstairs and down each week by a different local artist.

Tee it up

Haymaker Golf Club might not look like much as you drive by on State Route 40. But the wide undulating fairways are kept in great condition, with trouble to be found in the thigh-high native grass and water hazards. Of course, the west-facing runs of Mt. Werner serve as a fine backdrop.

Rollingstone Ranch offers even more of a challenge. The Sheraton’s resort course winds along the flanks of Mt. Werner, with the scenic Fish Creek flowing through six of the holes and two small lakes placed strategically on Nos. 8 and 9.

Also nearby is Steamboat Golf Club, a 9-hole gem that borders the Yampa River, as well as Catamount, the latter of which you’ll need to know somebody to get on the private Tom Weiskopf design that features a 530-acre lake.

Fishing

Steamboat Lake is only about 20 miles north as the crow flies from downtown, but it takes about 45 minutes to reach by car as it winds along the Elk River, through ranch country and past fields of blue lupine and yellow mule’s ears wildflowers. When the rainbow trout are biting, be ready.

B.G. Brooks hauls in a rainbow trout while fishing from a small motorboat on Steamboat Lake. Earlier that day he’d catch and release a 7-pound cutbow trout.

The novice fisherman that I am, I managed to haul in a 4-pounder one early fall morning. That same day a former colleague scored a trophy fish – an estimated 7 pound cutbow – though he was so worried about getting it back in the water for someone else to enjoy I never got an exact measurement.

Other friends say the Yampa River is good for brown trout and rainbow, while Hahn’s Peak Lake and Pearl Lake (lure only) also are great for catching fresh-water fish.

Lodging

There’s nothing fancy about Steamboat Lake, or its accommodations.

Steamboat Lake Outfitters offer cheap, clean, no frills bunk rooms a few miles away for $89.

B.G. and Patti Brooks relax by campfire outside their small rented cabin near the Steamboat Lake Marina.

Then there’s the tiny cabins by the marina that come equipped with two bunk beds, electric heat, a tiny refrigerator/freezer and outdoor fire pit perfect for grilling fish, warming up turkey stew or toasting marshmallows before easing back in a folding chair to soak in the night sky.

Restrooms/showers are in a nearby building, close enough not to worry about wildlife and with hand-dryers for those days when one’s cameras inexplicably go for a swim.

Hot springs

Strawberry Park is open year round, and each season offers a different experience. There’s nothing like soaking in 103-degree mineral water while champagne powder is falling and mist is rising off the water. In the fall, the surrounding aspen trees offer another unforgettable experience.

Strawberry Park Hot Springs is set amid beautiful aspens, with plenty of room to relax in the natural mineral pools.

In spring and summer, the drive up the windy, washboard (the last two miles) road is less harrowing, and it’s a lot easier to negotiate the steps down to the springs.

What2Bring: A small flashlight will help you find your way in the dark so you don’t end up in the river, or a campground. But be sure not to flash it over the water as guests will heckle unmercifully at the invasion of their privacy. Water socks are a good idea as is an over-the-wrist car key holder, plastic drinking bottles (the signs claim no alcohol or glass), towels, and cash (entry is $10 for adults and they don’t accept credit cards).

Check it out: Massage and Watsu therapists are available from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily. Prices range from $50 for a half-hour massage to $180 for two hours combining both therapies.

Stay2Play: Rustic cabins are available for rent for $60 a night. The simple, single-room log cabins come with one double futon, and feature gas lighting, heat and gas grill. Guests need to supply their own bedding material, food (in a cooler), flashlights, swimsuits and towels. Two-story rustic cabins are a little more spacious and offer gas fireplaces, with exclusive access to a central bathhouse with hot showers and flush toilets. Cost: $70 for two per night. Extra person: $20 adult, $10 child.

Caboose: The most popular way to go is to rent a renovated train caboose, complete with fireplace, bathroom and shower, full-size futon, linens and stocked kitchenette. Cost: $110 for two per night.

Other choices in Steamboat Springs can be found at Steamboat.com.

Sailing

Visitors can choose between Stagecoach or Steamboat Lakes for their trips, and go for an hour, for a sunset cruise or a full day. Special requests also can be made for larger parties or multiple day use.

A sculler’s oars make cat eyes in a small lake just south of Steamboat Springs.

For more information, contact Steamboat central reservations at 1-877-783-2628.

Fall foliage

Steamboat is known for its champagne powder and perfect summers, but fall is also a great time to visit as well. It is less crowded, the fish are still biting and there’s great weather for hiking, fishing, golfing or biking. There’s also some great drives for the leaf peepers.

Fall is a perfect time to visit Steamboat Lake, where aspens flash their golden hue in the rustic countryside.

1. Rabbit Ears Pass gets its name from the granite outcroppings that are visible on a mountain in the Park Range. Though the area gets a considerable amount of snow in winter, it is ablaze with wildflowers in spring and offers great fall views, especially on the east side as it approaches Muddy Pass Lake.

2. Steamboat Lake. The drive along County Road 129 cuts through open meadows, and follows the Elk River past majestic Hahn’s Peak to the small lake, just 20 miles (as the crow flies) south of the Wyoming border.

3. Flat Tops Trail. The 82-mile scenic byway tour from Meeker to Yampa (south and west of Steamboat Springs) traverses the scenic upper White River valley and crosses Ripple Creek and Dunckley passes. Almost the entire drive is lined with aspens and there are many scenic lookouts to pull off, making it one of the best for taking in Colorado’s fall colors.

Be warned. The only downside to Steamboat is a problem plaguing much of the Colorado Rockies. Beetle kill. The Lodgepole Pines have been devastated, with as many as 90 percent of the mature trees infested and dying. Park officials estimate they cut down 10,000 dead trees near Steamboat and Hahn’s Lake. Younger trees and other species, however, are unaffected so there’s still plenty of green to see.
For more information on everything about the parks, visit http://parks.state.co.us/Parks/SteamboatLake/Pages/SteamboatLakeHome.aspx.

Story and photos by Clint Williams

In the rush to reach the well-known wineries of Yountville, Rutherford and St. Helena, most visitors to the wine country of California’s Napa Valley blow right by splendid spots to while away the day.

California State Route 29 is the asphalt backbone of Napa Valley, the main highway linking Interstate 80 to the valley. Scores of wineries—maybe too many to explore in a lifetime—are found north of the town of Napa along Route 29 and the parallel Silverado Trail. This is where everyone goes and you won’t go wrong following the crowd.

But, trust me, slow down. Take a left. Leave the traffic behind and spend your first day in Napa Valley enjoying the Carneros region.

Napa Valley—home to about 300 wineries—is comprised of 16 regions, or appellations, where soil, location and slight variations in weather create distinctive growing conditions. The combinations of fog and afternoon sun, nighttime temperatures and soil bring various characteristics to the grapes. Each appellation is particularly suited to growing vines that produce a specific type of wine.

Howell Mountain, with little fog and rocky soil, is where robust cabernet sauvignon and merlot is grown. The Carneros Appellation lays up against the cold waters of San Pablo Bay and the lingering, cooling fog makes it ideal for growing chardonnay and pinot noir, the wine made popular by the movie Sideways. Located at the south end of the valley, just a few miles southwest of the town of Napa, all you have to do is turn left to head west on California State Route 12 and you’re there.

If you can visit just one of the tasting rooms open to the public, make it Artesa.

The gardens of Domaine Carneros.

The pyramid-like visitors’ center is insulated with dirt and native grasses and blends into the highest hill of the 350-acre estate. Stunning is over-used to describe views – but not this time. Most days the view includes fog hanging over the bay and, on clear days, a view of the San Francisco skyline to the southwest. Fountains and sculptures decorate the grounds and more art is found inside the gallery and tasting rooms. But enjoy your wine on the south deck. Sipping inside would be a sin.

The fun in visiting wine country is the chance to try wines not available at the local grocery store and to expand your palette. Such is certainly the fun at Artesa, which specializes in varietals from Spain, the founder’s home country. A limited release Albarino, with a lively mix of lime and pear, started the $10 tasting. A wonderful personal surprise. I had to leave with a bottle, making the first bottle of white wine I’ve purchased in, well, ever.

It is easy, maybe even essential, to stretch a tasting flight over an hour or two, sitting in the mild sunshine, drinking in the wine and views of rolling hills of golden grass and green oaks. From the south deck of Artesa, it’s easy to spot the two-tone château of Domaine Carneros, but don’t plan on rushing there.

On the terrace admiring the view at Carneros Domaine.

As you head downhill from Artesa, ease right into the parking lot of Folio Winemakers’ Studio where the wines of several vintners are on display. A deep back porch overlooks vineyards and the tasting flight offers a choice of six wines.

Leave Folio and make three right turns and a left and you’re at Domaine Carneros where the focus is on sparkling wines. This is one of the few wineries where you can relax and enjoy table service instead of bellying up to the bar. Views from the terrace are only slightly less elevated than those at Artesa. Wines may be tasted in flights, of course, but you can also enjoy bubbly by the glass or by the bottle. Platters of cheese, nuts and dried fruit can turn a tasting into a long, lingering lunch.

There you go: three stops within about two miles and one delightful afternoon in the memory bank.

If You Go

Slightly southwest of Sonoma and a bit northwest of Napa, Carneros Appellation is just north of the San Pablo Bay and can offer breathtaking views of the surrounding wine country and even San Francisco on a clear day.

Where2Taste

Artesa Vineyards & Winery
1345 Henry Road
Napa, CA 94559
Tel: 707.224.1668
www.artesawinery.com

Domaine Carneros
1240 Duhig Road
Napa, CA 94559
Tel: 800 716-BRUT (2788)
www.domainecarneros.com

Folio Winemaker’s Studio
1285 Dealy Lane
Napa, CA 94559
http://foliowinemakersstudio.com
Tel: 707.256.2757

Top photo: art and vineyards at Artesa Winery.