Baltimore’s Neighborhoods Are Made for Food Lovers

By Hope S. Philbrick

Baltimore, Maryland is a place that deserves to be explored over the leisurely course of a week or longer. Which is not to say it wouldn’t make a great weekend getaway—it definitely would—but in that case you might linger in a specific neighborhood.

In researching this story I explored nine of Baltimore’s distinct neighborhoods in three days, with an itinerary that emphasized restaurants. In total I visited nearly two dozen restaurants, which meant literally snatching one bite here, a sip there and running (sometimes in pouring rain) from café to bistro to coffee shop to diner to brewery to eatery. Often, I rushed out a door mid-swallow in order to make my next appointment. My trip was fun, but it’s not what I recommend and certainly not what Baltimore deserves.

I still regret certain unfinished dishes, things that were fabulously tasty but that I lacked the time and sufficient stomach capacity to savor. Despite the frenetic pace of my visit, I left Baltimore with a very favorable impression. It’s a picturesque, walkable, historic city with a genuinely friendly personality. (As a testament to the sincerity of folks’ friendliness, let me point out that during my whirlwind tour I made several new friends with whom I remain in touch months later. While I’m a nice enough person, forming true bonds isn’t something that routinely happens for me as a journalist racing through a city on assignment.) I look forward to returning to Baltimore, hopefully soon, to visit my new friends and to explore its treasures at a more relaxed pace.

Taste

Baltimore’s neighborhoods each have their own unique essence. Some transitions are dramatic – you probably won’t find too many folks wandering the sidewalks wearing pink bouffant wigs in Mount Vernon, but you very well may in Hampden. (Those wigs? It’s all in good fun.) In most cases the lines between neighborhoods blur along the edges so it’s possible to cross into a new one without realizing it immediately, but odds are you’ll sense the differences soon enough. And if not, so what? Throughout Baltimore the people are unpretentious and laid-back.

In Baltimore’s Hampden neighborhood, pink wigs aren’t de rigeur but they do make things interesting. Credit: Visit Baltimore

The same is true of Baltimore restaurants: Snootiness is not on the menu. Even the finest establishments behave like comfortable local hangouts with regulars known by name. There’s a strong sense of pride in local, non-chain businesses.

Baltimore’s proximity to the Chesapeake Bay certainly influences local menus. Crab and seafood is so commonplace that you’d have a hard time finding a restaurant without it on the menu. (Barring an allergy, I can’t fathom why you’d want to.) Seafood reigns, but it’s far from predictable. Many restaurants throughout Baltimore are infusing classic ingredients and traditional recipes with new creativity and showcasing seasonal, local produce.

Funky to hip, homey to chic, classic to inventive, trendy to traditional to unexpected, Baltimore’s restaurant scene boasts a diverse range of dining options that promise the culinary explorer a tasty adventure.

For my take on individual restaurants, scroll down to the Where2Eat section.

Explore

Beyond restaurants, Baltimore boasts shops, hotels and more than 130 attractions to visit. Because things are in close proximity to one another, Baltimore is easy to navigate on foot. But you can also hop onto the Charm City Circulator, a free service running 21 new hybrid shuttle buses on three routes from early morning to late night, seven days a week.

Baltimore has long been considered a historic city, but in 2009 it was officially designated a National Heritage Area in recognition of its distinctive natural, cultural, historic and scenic resources. Baltimore tells a unique American story. What more could you expect of the home of Edgar Allen Poe?

Two key attractions celebrate the National Anthem. The Star-Spangled Banner Flag House (circa 1793) is where Mary Pickersgill stitched the flag that inspired the lyrics. Visit to learn about the feisty seamstress, the wool flag with 15 stars and 15 stripes, and to tour a historic house filled with original early-19th Century objects—though the quaint house is so well maintained that you might find yourself imagining how your own furniture might fit in it. Fort McHenry, the only area of the National Park System that’s designated both a National Monument and Historic Shrine, inspired Francis Scott Key to pen the National Anthem during the War of 1812.

A kinetic sculpture of a pink poodle on display inside The American Visionary Art Museum Credit: Visit Baltimore

Respecting history doesn’t mean ignoring more modern contributions. “Everyone has a story and a valid perspective,” says Pete Hilsee, director of communications for the American Visionary Art Museum, which exhibits art produced by self-taught individuals. These folks may lack formal training, but that doesn’t mean you should dust off your third-grade crayon drawing and mail it in. Displayed works are impressive and surprisingly moving.

At the National Aquarium young attendees are fascinated by the jelly fish exhibit. Credit: National Aquarium

The National Aquarium is Baltimore’s leading attraction. Housing more than 16,500 aquatic animals, its mission is to “provide transforming experiences that encourage people to enjoy, respect, and protect the aquatic world.” Educational exhibits like “Jellies: Oceans Out of Balance” explain science in a way that appeals to children and adults plus offer steps we can all take to help improve the health of ocean waters.

Eclectic boutique shops abound in Baltimore’s Hampden neighborhood, including Breathe Books. Credit: Hope S. Philbrick

Boutique stores with enticing merchandise abound in Baltimore; many bear inventive names like Babe, Breathe Books, Whimsy, Ladybugs & Fireflies and In Watermelon Sugar. SoBotanical, which opened in 1986, is Baltimore’s first aromatherapy bar. Ma Petite Shoe sells fashionable shoes alongside mouth-satisfying chocolates and thus was named “Best Post-Breakup Oasis” in 2003 by Baltimore Magazine. “Each shop is a celebration of the entrepreneurial spirit of its owner,” says Denise Whiting, owner of Hon Café and founder of HonFest. That most boutiques are housed in re-purposed buildings also celebrates and helps preserve Baltimore’s charm.

Festivals add quirky fun to the already interesting daily life in Baltimore. HonFest is an annual celebration of working women. Participants vying for the Best Hon title don 60s-era bouffant wigs, bright eye shadow, spandex and leopard print while local musicians and artists entertain. The annual Kinetic Sculpture Race sets wacky human-powered works of art on a course traversing land, mud and deep water. Prizes based on art and engineering are awarded, but the most coveted trophies are for placing “Mediocre” (right in middle) and “Next-to-Last” (self explanatory) during the race. Just reading through the spectator rules (e.g., “be sure to remove lens cap from camera before serious picture taking”) conveys this is a town that takes care of its own and values fun.

If America is a melting pot then Baltimore is the flavorful concentration of some of its sweetest ingredients: diverse ethnicity, harmonious community, significant history, creative invention and organic progression. A city comprised of neighborhoods, its small town vibe earned it the nickname “Smalltimore.” But a visit will leave a big impression.

If You Go

Where2Stay

Admiral Fell Inn
Historic Fell’s Point
888 S. Broadway
410.522.7377
www.harbormagic.com
Rates from $149

Baltimore Marriott Waterfront
Harbor East neighborhood
700 Aliceanna St.
410.385.3000
www.baltimoremarriottwaterfront.com
Rates from $209

Brookshire Suites
Inner Harbor neighborhood
120 E. Lombard St.
410.625.1300
www.harbormagic.com
Rates from $99

Pier 5 Hotel
Inner Harbor neighborhood
711 Eastern Ave.
410.539.2000
www.harbormagic.com
Rates from $179

Scarborough Fair B&B
Federal Hill neighborhood
1 E. Montgomery St.
410.837.0010
www.scarboroughfairbandb.com
Rates vary by room, season and package selection; call for details.

What2Do

American Visionary Art Museum
Inner Harbor neighborhood
800 Key Hwy.
410.244.1900
www.avam.org
Showcases original works by self-taught artists.

Fort McHenry
Southeast of the Inner Harbor neighborhood
2400 E. Fort Ave.
410.962.4290
www.nps.gov/fomc/index.htm
Birthplace of the National Anthem.

National Aquarium
Inner Harbor neighborhood
501 E. Pratt St., Pier 3
410.576.3800
www.aqua.org
Baltimore’s most popular attraction boasts hundreds of exhibits and more than 16,500 aquatic animals.

Reginald F. Lewis Museum of Maryland African American History & Culture
Inner Harbor neighborhood
830 E. Pratt St.
443.263.1800
www.AfricanAmericanCulture.org
Highlights the history and accomplishments of Maryland’s African Americans.

Star Spangled Banner Flag House
Inner Harbor neighborhood
844 E. Pratt St.
410.837.1793
www.flaghouse.org
The 1793 home of seamstress Mary Pickersgill, who made the famous U.S. flag that flew over Fort McHenry.

USS Constellation Museum
Inner Harbor neighborhood
301 E. Pratt St., Pier 1
410.539.1797
www.historicships.org
Explore a historic ship.

Washington Monument and Museum at Mount Vernon Place
Mount Vernon neighborhood
699 N. Charles St.
410.396.1049
www.museumsusa.org/museums/info/1167087
The original Washington Monument, completed in 1829, predates the monument in Washington DC. Climb 228 steps for a $1 donation.

Where2Eat

Believe it or not, these are just a few of the restaurants I visited during my whirlwind introduction to Baltimore. But these made the strongest impression:

Aldo’s Ristorante Italiano
Little Italy neighborhood
306 S. High St.
410.727.0700
www.aldositaly.com
If this isn’t the best Italian food you’ve ever tasted, then you must have an Italian grandmother who should open a restaurant, stat.

Creme brulee and cappuccino at B&O American Brassiere. Credit: B&O American Brassiere

B&O American Brassiere
Downtown Baltimore
2 N. Charles St.
443-692-6172
www.bandorestaurant.com
Quality food, expertly prepared.

The Brewer’s Art
Mount Vernon neighborhood
1106 N. Charles St.
410.547.6925
www.thebrewersart.com
Wet your whistle on these finely crafted microbrews; the sampler makes it easy to taste each variety.

Café Hon
Hampden neighborhood
1002 W. 36th St.
410.243.1133
www.cafehon.com
Local treasure serves classic diner fare.

City Café
Mount Vernon neighborhood
1001 Cathedral St.
410.593.4252
www.citycafebaltimore.com
While in Baltimore order crab at least once. This is a great place to get it.

Corks
Federal Hill neighborhood
1026 S. Charles St.
410.752.3810
www.corksrestaurant.com
Trust this chef to prepare just what you crave.

Max’s Taphouse
Fell’s Point neighborhood
737 S. Broadway
410.675.6297
www.maxs.com
Baltimore’s largest beer selection boasts 140 on tap and over 1,200 by the bottle.

Milan
Straddles Harbor East and Little Italy neighborhoods
1000 Eastern Ave.
410.685.6111
www.onemilan.com
If you miss the lobster mac & cheese, I can’t forgive you.

Miss Shirley’s Café
Inner Harbor neighborhood
750 E. Pratt St.
410.528.5373
www.missshirleys.com
If you wake up with a sweet tooth, get breakfast here.

Servers keeping busy at Pazo. Credit:Pazo

Pazo Restaurant
Harbor East neighborhood
1425 Aliceanna St.
410.534.7296
www.pazorestaurant.com
Upscale fare with Mediterranean influences.

Pitango Gelato
Fell’s Point neighborhood
802 S. Broadway
410.236.0741
www.pitangogelato.com
Tasty, organic treat.

Ryleigh’s Oyster
Federal Hill neighborhood
36 E. Cross St.
410.539.2093
www.ryleighs.com
Quality ingredients, confidently prepared.

Sascha’s 527 Cafe dining room. Credit: Sascha’s

Sascha’s 527 Café
Mount Vernon neighborhood
527 N. Charles St.
410.539.8880
www.saschas.com
Eclectic menu, swanky setting.

Sotto Sopra
Mount Vernon neighborhood
405 N. Charles St.
410.625.0534
www.sottosoprainc.com
Trust that the special is worthy of your attention.

Spoons
Federal Hill neighborhood
24 E. Cross St.
410.539.8395
www.spoonscoffeecafe.com
Relax with a cup of coffee and don’t try too hard to resist the pastries.

Talara
Harbor East neighborhood
615 President St.
410.528.9883
www.talarabaltimore.com
Ceviche at its best.

Taverna Corvino
Federal Hill neighborhood
1117 S. Charles St.
410.727.1212
www.tavernacorvino.com
Classic Italian gets a modern twist.

The Wine Market
Locust Point neighborhood
921 E. Fort Ave., Suite 135
410.244.6166
www.the-wine-market.com
Creative menu, unpretentious setting.