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A Scenic Driving Tour of Northern New Mexico

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By Hope S. Philbrick

If you fight traffic as part of your daily commute, it may be difficult to imagine that a driving vacation could be stress-free, relaxing, and, yes, even fun. But New Mexico offers all that with its spectacular vistas, spacious roads and natural vibe.

“New Mexico is full of open space,” says Steve Lewis, public relations for the Santa Fe Convention & Visitors Bureau. “We’re a big state without too many people.”

In fact, the population of just under two million people share 121,599 square miles—an average of more than half a square mile per person. (Compare that to  New York where each person gets only 0.0024 square mile.) On the road, space offers an unobstructed line of sight to the horizon that facilitates the drive – in New Mexico expect to merge, pass, elude tailgaters and even pull over to snap photos without any hassle.

Open roads are just one reason to visit the nation’s fifth-largest state (after Alaska, Texas, California and Montana). Distinctive art and architecture, food products and cuisine, history and cultural traditions, shops and spas, natural settings and climates from desert to alpine are big attractions that captivate all senses. An intoxicating scent of roasting chiles lingers in the dry air. Mineral hot spring pools beckon to soothe exhausted muscles. Spicy salsas tantalize taste buds. At several festivals and events, Native American dancers twirl in festive costume to traditional rhythms.

Bike riding with Sandia Mountains in the background. Credit: ©www.itsatrip.orgBike riding with Sandia Mountains in the background. Credit: ©www.itsatrip.org

Whether your goal is to take photographs, relax at a spa, learn about Native American culture, savor Southwestern flavors, shop for turquoise jewelry and black pottery, experience hot air ballooning or llama trekking, or just break away from routine, there’s no shortage of entertainment options.

Whatever your itinerary, getting from Point A to Point B is no mere chore. As if painted, roadside scenes boast a range of hues, from dusty peach to burnt burgundy, sage to lime to pine, sand to charcoal, lavender to cobalt. Mesas, buttes, valleys, canyons, gorges and rock formations beg to be photographed, explored.

Located in the central and north central regions of the state, the cities of Albuquerque, Santa Fe and Taos offer convenient access to several of New Mexico’s Scenic Byways. Whether you choose just one city as a base or plan a route that incorporates more than one of these worthy destinations, buckle up and enjoy the drive.

Anderson-Abruzzo Albuquerque International Balloon Musuem. Credit: ©www.itsatrip.orgAnderson-Abruzzo Albuquerque International Balloon Musuem. Credit: ©www.itsatrip.org

Albuquerque

If you’ll fly into New Mexico, odds are your journey will begin in the mile-high city of Albuquerque. Serving as a hub for Southwest Airlines, the Albuquerque International Sunport welcomes more than six million travelers each year. The airport is simple to navigate, offers complimentary Wi-Fi, and boasts one of the most well-organized and convenient car rental service centers I’ve yet to encounter. I waited less than five minutes before hopping onto a free shuttle outside baggage claim to the centralized service center that houses eight different car rental companies. After completing the paperwork for my reservation, the service agent informed me that it’s illegal to use a cell phone while driving in New Mexico and suggested I avoid speeding (especially on Indian Reservation property) in order to avoid a ticket, then handed me a set of keys and a map. The whole process from stepping off the plane to pulling out of the airport took less than a half hour.

While it is one of the nation’s oldest cities, Albuquerque is today a vibrant, dynamic city where people live, work and play.

Brick walkways and adobe architecture in Albuquerque's Historic Old Town. Credit: ©www.itsatrip.orgBrick walkways and adobe architecture in Albuquerque’s Historic Old Town. Credit: ©www.itsatrip.org
A Native American dancer at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center in Albuquerque. Credit: Hope S. Philbrick A Native American dancer at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center in Albuquerque. Credit: Hope S. Philbrick

New Mexico’s largest city offers much to explore. Old Town Plaza, the city’s most historic neighborhood, houses craft galleries, museums and restaurants and is frequently a site of festivals. The Indian Pueblo Cultural Center is not only the best place to learn about New Mexico’s 19 Native American Pueblos, it’s also a great place to eat with an on-site restaurant serving Native American and Southwestern cuisine.

The Nob Hill neighborhood, with its hip boutiques, casual restaurants and live music venues, is a locals’ favorite. Five different museums within walking distance of Old Town Plaza showcase art, history, science and culture. Restaurants, wineries and breweries throughout the city offer a range of taste experiences to help educate your palate. With more than 300 days of sunshine annually and very low humidity, Albuquerque is a haven for outdoor adventures such as hiking, biking or riding horseback through the foothills or along mountain ridges.

NM-PetroglyphsPetroglyph National Monument near Albuquerque, New Mexico. Credit: Hope S. Philbrick

Several memorable day trips are located within an hour or so of Albuquerque. To the west, climb among ancient lava flows and see some of the 24,000 centuries-old native carvings on the rocks at the Petroglyph National Monument. Almost as amazing as the rock carvings themselves is the degree to which this park provides ready access to them—truly, even if you can’t or don’t want to scale up the rocky trail there’s much to see.

Sandia Peak TramSandia Peak Tram. Credit:©www.itsatrip.org

To the north, drive part of the Jémez Mountain Scenic Trail to Coronado National Monument to view the Kuaua Pueblo ruins alongside the picturesque Rio Grande (the nation’s fourth-longest river). To the east, ride the world’s longest single-span aerial tramway up the rugged Sandia Mountains in the Cibola National Forest. The 2.7-mile ride offers heart-pounding thrills above dramatic views of otherwise-inaccessible terrain.

Between Albuquerque and Santa Fe lies The Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway. The 65-mile route can be completed in about two to four hours, depending on how often and how long you stop to explore curiosities. (If driven as a round trip, allow four to eight hours.) The Turquoise Trail begins in the Cibola National Forest, heads north through Sandia Crest, winds through the quaint towns of Golden, Madrid, and Cerrillos and then ends in the San Marcos/Lone Butte Area. In addition to road signs and architecture that carries a distinctive “Old West” charm, the route boasts amazing views, former mining towns, hiking and biking trails, golf and skiing (season permitting), museums, horseback riding, and an array of art galleries and boutiques. Encompassing portions of historic Route 66, makes this drive feel like you’re connecting with legends.

Santa Fe

Creativity hangs in the Santa Fe air, a favorite city of artists, art collectors, discerning foodies, vacationers and retirees.

There’s much to see and do in Santa Fe, which celebrates its 400th Anniversary in 2010. Shopping for artwork tops the To-Do lists of most visitors to the City Different (Santa Fe’s popular nickname), which is home to over 200 art retail outlets and host of a series of art markets throughout the year. Canyon Road is lined with high-end art galleries that showcase paintings, sculpture, pottery, textiles, leather and more. The downtown Plaza’s shops and two shopping arcades deal primarily in jewelry, native crafts and clothing. Museums near the Plaza include the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, New Mexico History Museum and Museum of Contemporary Native Arts.

The Railyard District, Santa Fe’s newest art district and community gathering spot, is home to SITE Santa Fe Contemporary Arts Museum, the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market, a park and more. Museum Hill boasts the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, The Museum of International Folk Art and the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture. Artistry continues onto the plates of Santa Fe, as talented chefs deliver abundant culinary options.

Bandelier National Monument overlook. Credit: Hope S. PhilbrickBandelier National Monument overlook. Credit: Hope S. Philbrick

About 45 miles outside of Santa Fe is Bandelier National Monument. Allow at least an hour each way for this not-to-miss day trip (more time if you favor frequent stops). Named for the anthropologist and historian who declared the place “the grandest thing I ever saw,” Bandelier National Monument offers a glimpse at ancestral Pueblo life via ruins, cliff dwellings and Talus houses. The 33,750-acre park offers numerous breathtaking scenic views and 70 miles of hiking trails.

Cliff dwellings in Bandelier National Monument. Credit: Hope S. PhilbrickCliff dwellings in Bandelier National Monument. Credit: Hope S. Philbrick
Some of the cliff dwellings in Bandelier National Monument are open for exploration. Credit: Hope S. PhilbrickSome of the cliff dwellings in Bandelier National Monument are open for exploration. Credit: Hope S. Philbrick

Interpretative signs provide meaningful education along self-guided tour routes. The 1.2-mile Main Loop in Frijoles Canyon is a relatively easy walk that passes through the ruins and then alternately climbs stone steps and meanders footpaths alongside tall cliffs. At three different points it’s possible to climb wooden ladders into cliff dwellings for a unique perspective.

Two drive route options stretch between Santa Fe and Taos: the Rio Grande route and the High Road to Taos. Both options offer scenic views with interesting geological formations. But to maximize your enjoyment of these views—so that the best vistas stretch ahead in the windshield rather than appear in the review mirror—I recommend taking the Rio Grande from Santa Fe to Taos and the High Road in the other direction (which retains the name “High Road to Taos” even when traveling from Taos to Santa Fe).

Taos

Taos is both an escape and a place to find yourself with a vibe that blends tradition and modernity, nature and kitsch, community and remoteness.

Taos’ historic plaza is surrounded by restaurants and retail shops that carry arts, crafts and local products. Among the five museums in Taos is La Hacienda de Los Martinez and Harwood Museum of Art University of New Mexico. The No. 1 must-see attraction is Taos Pueblo, the largest existing multi-storied Pueblo structure in the United States, a UNESCO World Heritage site listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Taos Pueblo has been continuously inhabited for centuries. Many shops are located throughout, with vendors selling both traditional and contemporary artworks such as pottery, painting, photographs, T-shirts, drums, beadwork, jewelry and leather goods. Traditional foods and entertainment are also available upon occasion. San Geronimo Church (built in 1850) is a Registered National Historic Landmark in Taos Pueblo; photography inside is prohibited, but it’s a sight to remember.

An 85-mile loop north of Taos, the Enchanted Circle passes through alpine mountains (which were blanketed with a fresh coat of snow during my visit), valleys, mesas and national forest. Atop the 13,161-foot Wheeler Peak, peer down at the trout-rich lakes in the valley below. Ski (in season) at any of four ski areas. Prefer to relax? Drive through the Carson National Forest to Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs and while away the hours basking in waters ranging from 80 to 109 degrees Fahrenheit in any number of the 10 different pools naturally augmented with minerals: lithium, arsenic, iron and soda. (Upgrade to a private pool to experience the ultimate in relaxation.) En route be sure to stop to admire the Rio Grande Gorge, a vista that’s arguably one of the world’s best free forms of entertainment.

The Rio Grande Gorge near Taos. Credit: Hope S. PhilbrickThe Rio Grande Gorge near Taos. Credit: Hope S. Philbrick

It may be possible to drive The High Road to Taos from Taos to Santa Fe in a couple of hours, but allow at least double that time to ensure you have sufficient time to stop to enjoy the abundant photo ops and explore whatever piques your interest along the way such as the village of Chimayó, home of one of New Mexico’s most renowned peppers and the center of Spanish weaving tradition for over 250 years.

The challenge of New Mexico’s scenic drives is not road navigation: It’s sorting through hundreds of photos once back home.

If You Go

KnowB4YouGo

Adapting to high altitude can take several days. You may find that you run out of breath easily, so don’t overdo it with strenuous activity at the outset of your stay. Drink extra water to stay hydrated.

Gourd artist demonstration at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center in Albuquerque. Credit: ©www.itsatrip.orgGourd artist demonstration at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center in Albuquerque. Credit: ©www.itsatrip.org

ALBUQUERQUE

Where2Stay

Hotel Albuquerque
800 Rio Grande Blvd. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87104
505.843.6300
http://hhandr.com/albuquerque.php?src=gl_albuquerque

Rates from $115. Located an easy walk from the Historic Old Town Plaza and the museum district.

What2Do

American International Rattlesnake Museum
202 San Felipe St. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87104
505.242.6569
www.rattlesnakes.com

Located in Old Town, this museum boasts the world’s largest collection of rattlesnakes.

Anderson-Abruzzo Albuquerque International Balloon Museum
9201 Balloon Museum Drive NE
Albuquerque, NM 87113
505.768.6020
www.cabq.gov/balloon

Exhibits celebrate hot air ballooning history, technology, festivals and pilot accomplishments. Hands-on activities include a virtual balloon pilot experience.

Casa Rondeña Winery
733 Chavez Rd. NW
Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 87107
505.344.5911
www.casarondena.com

Tasty wines and spectacular grounds are two reasons to visit.

Coronado State Monument
485 Kuaua Rd.
Bernalillo, NM 87004
505.867.5351
www.nmmonuments.org/inst.php?inst=4

Exhibits include an earthen pueblo excavated in the 1930s, prehistoric and historic Indian and Spanish colonial artifacts.

Indian Pueblo Cultural Center
2401 12th St. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87104
505.843.7270
www.indianpueblo.org

Exhibits, demonstrations and performances celebrate the history, culture and traditions of 19 Native American Pueblos.

New Mexico Museum of Natural History & Science
1801 Mountain Rd.
Albuquerque, NM 87104
505.841.2800
www.nmnaturalhistory.org

From a wooly mammoth skeleton to a simulated active volcano and a Planetarium, the exhibits at this museum seek to explain the world and universe, past and present.

Old Town Plaza
Visitors Center: 303 Romero NW
Albuquerque, NM 87104
www.AlbuquerqueOldTown.com

The city’s “cultural heart” is surrounded by boutiques, galleries, restaurants and museums.

Petroglyph National Monument
6001 Unser Blvd. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87120
505.899.0205
www.nps.gov/petr/

These volcanic rocks were carved with an estimated 24,000 different images centuries ago.

Sandia Peak Aerial Tramway
#10 Tramway Loop NE
Albuquerque, NM 87122
505.856.7325
www.sandiapeak.com

The world’s longest aerial tramway travels 2.7 miles above deep canyons and rocky terrain. The view at the 10,400-foot peak encompasses up to 11,000 square miles.

Turquoise Museum
2107 Central Ave. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87104
505.247.8650
www.turquoisemuseum.com

A stop here to learn about turquoise before shopping means you’ll make jewelry purchases with informed confidence.

Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway
www.turquoisetrail.org

Encompassing a historic 15,000-square-mile area in the heart of central New Mexico, this route combines scenic views, historic stops, outdoor adventure opportunities and Southwestern art galleries and boutiques.

Where2Eat

Chama River Brewing Co.
4939 Pan American W Freeway NE
Albuquerque, NM 87109
505.342.1800
www.chamariverbrewery.com

Upscale microbrewery boasts some of the tastiest sips and bites in town.

El Pinto Authentic New Mexican Restaurant
10500 4th St. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114
505.898.1771
www.elpinto.com

Recently rated as runner-up to the best restaurant in New Mexico, El Pinto specializes in traditional recipes and flame-roasted chiles.

Flying Star Café
3416 Central Ave. SE*
Albuquerque, NM 87106
505.255.6633
www.flyingstarcafe.com

While ordering at the counter, don’t overlook the value-priced daily specials. *This fast-casual chain boasts multiple locations.

Pueblo Harvest Café
2401 12th St. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87104
505.843.7270
www.indianpueblo.org/visit/cafe.html

The only restaurant in Albuquerque owned by Native Americans, the menu boasts traditional native dishes plus contemporary creations that utilize traditional ingredients in innovative ways.

St. Clair Winery & Bistro
901 Rio Grande Blvd. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87104
505.243.9916
www.stclairvineyards.com

Diverse wine selections and an eclectic menu are served inside this comfortable bistro.

4MoreInfo

Albuquerque Convention & Visitors Bureau
505.842.9918 or 800.284.2282
www.itsatrip.org

SANTA FE

Where2Stay

Inn on the Alameda
303 East Alameda
Santa Fe, NM 87501
888.984.2121
www.innonthealameda.com

Rates from $125/night. Located three blocks from the Historic Plaza and one block from Canyon Road art district.

What2Do

Bandelier National Monument
Los Alamos, NM 87544
505.672.3861
www.nps.gov/band/index.htm

The Main Loop trail is the most popular and offers ladder access into some historic cliff dwellings.

Georgia O’Keeffe Museum
217 Johnson St.
Santa Fe, NM 87501
505.946.1000
www.okeeffemuseum.org

The only museum in the world dedicated to an internationally known American woman artist.

Museum of Contemporary Native Arts
108 Cathedral Place
Santa Fe, NM 87501
505.983.8900
www.iaiamuseum.org

Showcases Native art.

New Mexico History Museum
113 Lincoln Ave.
Santa Fe, NM 87501
505.476.5200
www.nmhistorymuseum.org

Exhibits state history from the early history of indigenous people, Spanish colonization and the Mexican Period.

Rio Grande Gorge Visitor Center
575.751.4899

Santa Fe School of Cooking
505.983.4511
www.santafeschoolofcooking.com

Learn secrets of New Mexican cooking and purchase ingredients to recreate the flavors at home.

Where2Eat

The Anasazi Restaurant & Bar
113 Washington Ave.
Santa Fe, NM 87501
505.988.3030
www.innoftheanasazi.com
The atmosphere as well as the food preparations by Executive Chef Oliver Ridgeway are elegant yet rustic.

Las Fuentes Restaurant & Bar
1297 Bishop’s Lodge Rd.
Santa Fe, NM 87501
505.983.6377
www.bishopslodge.com
Executive Chef Carmen Rodriguez describes his creations as “Nuevo Rancho,” showcasing flavors that are natural to the New Mexican environment with French and Spanish influences.

The Burrito Co. Café
111 Washington Ave.
Santa Fe, NM 87501
505.982.4453
http://theburritocompanycafe.com/
Serves fresh, authentic Mexican food in a casual setting.

Café Pasqual’s
121 Don Gaspar
Santa Fe, NM 87501
505.983.9340
www.pasquals.com
This award-winning café has attracted fans for 31 years.

Galisteo Bistro
227 Galisteo St.
Santa Fe, NM 87501
505.982.3700
www.galisteobistro.com
Chef/Owner Robert Chickering says that he “believes in minimal processing and creating flavor layers.” His upscale menu features local organic fare seasoned to perfection.

La Boca
72 W. Marcy St.
Santa Fe, NM 87501
505.982.3433
www.labocasf.com
Chef James Campbell Caruso, a James Beard Award nominee for Best Chef Southwest, says that his menu at La Boca “features a lot of bold flavors with Spanish and Moroccan influences.”

Mucho Gusto Mexican Restaurant
839 Paseo de Peralta
Santa Fe, NM 87501
505.955.8402
Excellent Mexican fare at prices that are more than fair. I still daydream about the blue corn enchiladas with shrimp and green chile sauce.

Restaurant Martin
526 Galisteo St.
Santa Fe, NM 87501
505.820.0919
www.restaurantmartinsantafe.com
Chef Martín Rios serves innovative, finely crafted dishes that catapult New Mexican food traditions to creative heights.

Santacafé
231 Washington Ave.
Santa Fe, NM 87501
505.984.1788
www.santacafe.com
This favorite among locals since 1983 serves unique dishes with Southwestern flair.

4MoreInfo

Santa Fe Convention & Visitors Bureau
800.777.2489
www.santafe.org

TAOS

Where2Stay

Historic Taos Inn
125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte
Taos, NM 87571
575.758.2233
www.taosinn.com
Rates from $75/night. The Inn is comprised of several adobe houses dating from the 1800s, updated with modern conveniences.

Hotel La Fonda de Taos
108 S. Plaza
Taos, NM 87571
800.833.2211
www.lafondataos.com
Rates from $119/night. The only hotel on Taos Plaza. Recently renovated.

What2Do

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa
50 Los Baños Drive
Ojo Caliente, NM 87549
www.ojocalientesprings.com
Relax in mineral pools, steam, sauna and mud pools. Rates from $16/day. Spa services, private pools, restaurant, overnight accommodations and more also available.

Taos Pueblo
Taos, NM 87571
575.758.1028
www.taospueblo.com
The only living Native American community designated as both a World Heritage Site and a National Historic Landmark. Adult admission $10/person; students $5; children age 10 and younger are free. Camera fees from $5. Familiarize yourself with guest regulations before entering.

Museum Association of Taos
www.TaosMuseums.org
Offers a combination admission ticket good at all five Taos museums. Valid for a year from purchase, it’s available at all the museums as well as the Taos Visitor Center for $25, a 40% savings.

Where2Eat

Doc Martin’s Restaurant
125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte
Taos, NM 87571
575.758.2233
www.taosinn.com/restaurant.html
Local, seasonal ingredients transformed into award-winning Southwestern cuisine at this legendary dining establishment.

Joseph’s Table
108 S. Plaza
Taos, NM 87571
575.751.4512
www.josephstable.com
Chef Joseph Wrede brings French, Italian and Asian influences to Southwestern ingredients with results that earn raves.

4MoreInfo

Taos Visitor Center
1139 Paseo del Pueblo Sur
Taos, NM 87571
575.758.3873 or 800.348.0696
www.taosvacationguide.com

New Mexico Tourism Department
491 Old Santa Fe Trail
Santa Fe, NM 87501
505.827.7400
www.newmexico.org

Top photo: Historic Route 66 Photo Collage. Credit: ©MarbleStreetStudio.com

{ 3 comments… read them below or add one }

Jeremiah Right July 5, 2010 at 3:25 pm

Excellent article….

Love NM. So much Good Food, Beautiful scenery, adventure and genuine people.
Abq and SF are great but Taos is the gem of NM. Go fishing in the mountains and hike the trails. It will steal your heart. JR

Mary January 15, 2011 at 2:14 pm

What a great week my daughter and I had in Santa Fe 12-22 to 12-29. Started with a 2-hour spa session at Bishop’s Lodge followed by a restaurant walk through Santa Fe Cooking School. Of course did the Christmas Eve ramble on Canyon Rd with 100,000 others.

Tremendously enjoyed only two of the many museums on our list (we simply ran out-of-time) but what we saw were Georgia O’Keefe’s and, in Taos, Millicent Rogers’…..so impressed with the latter that I became a member.

Found a French bakery for breakfast two mornings and on the third bought a big bag of perfect croissants for our trip home. A French family of 4 runs “Cloufatis,” named for a famous French dessert, cherry flan. Must return for lunch someday!

Only spent a day in Taos, again much too short a time. One of my missions was to try as many forms of New Mexico’s sopapillas as we could. Of the several tried, best was at Michael’s in Taos. but I have several more on my to-be-tried list.
There were so many other things for future seasonal trips: February’s ArtFeast (3 days of fashion, art, food, wine and homes), more museums and sopapillas tasting, Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival, the Opera season, and on and on. And of course more restaurant tours and perhaps some cooking classes at Santa Fe Cooking School.

Thanks for your many “possibilities.”

Stacey Dougherty January 16, 2011 at 1:02 pm

Glad the info in our article gave you great ideas for your trip! That’s what we’re here for. :)

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