Story and photos by Pamela Irving
If your daily grind is getting you down or you live far enough north where winter never seems to end, it’s time to rev up your adventure meter in warmer albeit wetter climes like verdant Vancouver Island, British Columbia. Ranked second in 2009 in the “Top Islands of North America” category by Condé Nast Traveler readers, the area is a pristine maritime wilderness protected mostly as parkland. Here are a couple of my favorite things to do and one still on my bucket list that are the perfect antidote when life doesn’t have enough zing.
Get Zipped at AdrenaLine Zipline
Careening through the treetops holding on for dear life to a single strap suspended on what I call the Screamer – a 1,000-foot cable 150 feet above the ground – I would have felt quite daring, if the two girls under ten in our group weren’t always keen to go first and showed absolutely no fear.
The guides start you out slow, on what I call the Bunny Line – 150 feet long at 12 feet above the ground – and peak at the Screamer, where I even saw a Sasquatch rummaging for food below, and when not busy being nervous, enjoyed the spectacular views.
One of the twenty-something gals in our group was there to face her fear of heights, with the rest of her tribe teasing her relentlessly until we hit the Screamer, then for some reason, they were all silent.
The fully trained guides handle all the equipment, so you are perfectly safe, clipped in with a series of carabiners and straps, all you have to do is zip, zip, zip, except when you cross over a swinging footbridge, but even then, you are strapped to cables.
When our guide busted the fear factor with bad jokes like, “I dreamt about a muffler last night and woke up exhausted”’, he was greeted by nervous gales of laughter.
With eight zips over a period of two hours, you might feel it in your upper body the next day. Grazing at the breakfast buffet of Victoria’s Magnolia Hotel with the parents of the keen girls, their 40-something Dad was reaching a bit tenderly for his muffins that morning.
AdrenaLine: A must-do for team building, family bonding, fear facing, or personal challenge for all ages over five, with shuttles from Victoria’s inner harbor. www.adrenalinezip.com
Sooke Coastal Explorations Marine Life Eco-tour
Looking like the Michelin man in your captain issued floatation suit is only bearable because everyone else looks like one, too. Besides, Buddy, the resident harbor seal enjoys the blubbery company as he lolls on the pier while the rest of us pile into a Zodiac. If you have never scudded across the sea with salt spray in your face and sunshine leapfrogging off the water, you have not lived. I am a Cancer and need the sea to remind me that life is fabulous – especially marine life.
On that fine day, we witnessed Stellar and California sea lions basking in the sun of Race Rocks. This tiny outcrop of islands is the southern most point in British Columbia and is now an eco-reserve with lighthouse standing guard. Stellar bulls weigh up to a ton; their sheer mass makes you feel very small by marine world standards, and in your Michelin suit, that’s a good thing.
Owner and captain, Russ Nicks, has naturalist leader training and is in the Coast Guard so you are in safe hands, as are the animals. Eco-ethics require that a distance of 100 yards be maintained. If the animals swim within that distance, he shuts the engines down so that they can pass by peacefully.
We also saw Dalls’ porpoises leaping and elephant seals averaging two tons, a fishing boat with a happy fisher landing one whopper of a salmon, and a fully loaded aircraft carrier heading up from the U.S. en-route to Afghanistan guided by a Blackhawk helicopter. This is not the kind of wildlife I expected to see, but there you have it, we can not escape the state of the world even in a Zodiac.
On the return trip, we zoomed in close to East Sooke Park, where landlubbers trek on the myriad of hiking trails or linger on intimate beaches in small coves. Close-ups of purple starfish gleaming on rocks and bald eagles perching in aeries are as stunning as the big marine animals. If you really have to see whales to feel complete, the best time is April through October when orcas and humpbacks are seen regularly. Captain Russ saw ten orcas today alone. Highly recommended. www.sookewhalewatching.com
If all the adrenalin and adventure has jacked up your appetite, never fear, some of the best dining in the world is available at Sooke Harbour House – Condé Naste award-winning and well deserved. SHH is more of a legend than a mere meal or room for the night, with everything on the menu 100 percent local, harvested from the sea or grown in the gardens. Watch for more about this exceptional seafront oasis in a future column. In the mean time check it out for yourself at www.sookeharbourhouse.com Get to Vancouver Island on BC Ferries www.bcferries.com and Sooke is 45 minutes from Victoria by road.
Plan now for Sea Kayaking in God’s Pocket Marine Provincial Park
This one is on my to-do list. The name alone evokes the poetic spirit of this provincial park that acts as base camp for paddling the Inner Passage with family-owned Sea Kayak Adventures. Whale viewing from a kayak, feasting on chef prepared gourmet meals of local organic produce and freshly caught seafood is all that more divine with the hot tub waiting to hydro massage sore paddling muscles. The quaint resort and 7-room lodge – the only one in the park – are on a remote uninhabited island just off the north tip of Vancouver Island with awe-inspiring views of coastal mountains and the Queen Charlotte Strait.
Owner Nancy Mertz tells me that people of all experience levels find this an excellent introduction to sea kayak touring and a great way to experience the wonders of paddling on Canada’s Inside Passage -the perfect place to celebrate special days, multi-generational family reunions, all women’s trips, retreats, and more.
At day’s end, enjoy the camaraderie of companions around the communal table, watch the sunset and stars and sleep blissfully in what has to be the safest place in the universe – deep in the heart of God’s Pocket.
Five or six-day trips depart every Monday, June 21- July 30 from Port Hardy on Vancouver Island. Trips fill fast – call to book your space now. 1-800- 616-1943, www.seakayakadventures.com Email info@seakayakadventures.com Park info www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/gods_pocket/
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I am so happy to read Pamela Irving adventures in Sooke, the little town on the southwest coast of Vancouver Island not very far from Victoria ( only 35 minutes). I discovered Sooke 31 years ago when we purchased Sooke Harbour House, then a small B& B of 5 rooms with a wonderful ocean side dining room. Coming from Provence after a year in Toronto, and not knowing at all was British Columbia and Vancouver Island has to offer, I fell in love with this small region, Sooke to Port Renfrew, for the nature, the wilderness, the faun and flora that is all around us, so accessible but still so wild and pristine, a rare thing now days!. I love all the outdoors adventures that are so easily accessible, the incredible number of very talented artists that have their studios a few kilometers from our hotel, the fishermen, the food artisans, the meadery, the gardens, the fresh air. Sooke is still an undiscovered jewel, it is still not too crowded, I am really fortunate that for the last 31 years I was able to live ,work in such a beautiful and pristine environment. Thank you Pamela for spreading the word. Now we have to be careful that we can all have our businesses here and still preserve this beauty! We love to share this with everyone.
Frederique