Avoiding Comparisons Best Way to Visit Charleston

By Hope S. Philbrick

In one episode of Seinfeld, Elaine befriends three guys similar to Jerry, George and Kramer except they’re much nicer and well mannered. The eerie coincidences convince her she’s stepped into a “Bizzaro World.” At first she’s enamored with the cleaner crew; by the end she grows bored with them and returns to her original pals.

On my first few visits to Charleston, South Carolina, I couldn’t shake the feeling that I’d stumbled into Bizzaro New Orleans. The two southern port cities share many similarities: both have historic French quarters with cobbled streets and distinctive ironwork, copious markets and boutiques, art galleries and restaurants serving renowned regional cuisine, horse-drawn carriage tours, rich histories and intense local pride among other things.

Yet Charleston is like the subtle cousin to New Orleans’ sassy flirt. On the day before Lent you’re far less likely to find anyone strolling down the street sporting only body paint in Charleston than in New Orleans. On any given day in Charleston, you’ll pass fewer boisterous well-wishers, hear fewer jazz musicians on street corners and sniff fewer whiffs of hot pepper sauce wafting out of cafés. It felt like something was missing.

I adore New Orleans and so initially Charleston felt familiar yet off-kilter to me, more standoffish, reserved and dare I say, bland. A recent three-day-weekend visit spent wandering neighborhoods, touring museums, shopping, and even more mundane activities like getting my hair cut, provided an opportunity to shed the comparison and relish Charleston’s abundant, unique charms. Lucky for me, unlike Elaine I need not choose between friends: I am free to treasure both cities.

Here, I introduce my new friend, one I hope to visit again soon. Among Charleston’s compelling attributes:

Sweetgrass Baskets are known as one of the oldest African art forms still practiced in the United States. The 300-year-old tradition of basketmaking thrives in the Charleston area. Photo courtesy of Charleston CVB

Gullah History

Founded in 1670, the threads of Charleston history weave into the history of the United States. Of special interest is the Gullah, a group descended from enslaved Africans whose West African cultural heritage has been better preserved than any other group of African-Americans. (In Georgia, where they also live in small farming and fishing communities in the Sea Islands, these folks are called Geechee.)

“You da one of we people ya,” says Alphonso Brown, Gullah Tours guide and author of A Gullah Guide to Charleston, to each tourist boarding his 21-passenger bus as a way to demonstrate how the Gullah language is at once familiar yet distinct. “You’re one of us now!” he laughs in translation, assuring those with startled faces that the entire tour is not conducted in Gullah Creole language.

Brown’s two-hour tour, during which he shares stories both serious and funny, showcases Charleston’s history, architecture, personalities, traditions, contributions, artworks and more. Among the stops is Philip Simmons’ former studio (Simmons, who died on June 22, 2009, was the nation’s preeminent blacksmith and creator of many of Charleston’s iron gates).

Unfinished works inside the studio of the city’s most celebrated ironworker, Philip Simmons. Photo by Hope S. Philbrick

Brown also doles out advice—about where to eat (he’s a fan of Magnolia’s), where to shop (don’t miss King Street), where it’s safe to wander alone after dark (most everywhere in the French Quarter) and how to choose among the Gullah sweetgrass baskets, which are counted among Charleston’s most unique and prized artworks (for starters, the weave should be tight.) It’s an educational tour both entertaining and practical.

Lowcountry Cuisine

“Our historic city has been preserved and our cuisine is an extension of that historic culture,” says Executive Chef Frank Lee of Maverick Southern Kitchens. Indeed, culinary styles grow out of what’s available in a region and who lives there—people’s taste preferences, cultures, cooking skills and recipes. The lowcountry (the coastal regions of Georgia and South Carolina, including Charleston) was settled by a diverse population of French, Spanish, Scottish, English, African and Native American people with ready access to rice, seafood and abundant produce.

Chef Emily Kimbrough at Charleston Cooks! Maverick Kitchen Store. Photo by Hope S. Philbrick

Lowcountry cuisine is tasty, unpretentious fare like lowcountry boil (also known as frogmore stew), hoppin’ john, she-crab soup, huguenot torte and shrimp and grits. Arguably the best-known lowcountry dish, shrimp and grits originated as a common breakfast enjoyed by fishermen; today it’s on Charleston lunch and dinner menus in every price category. Chef Emily Kimbrough teaches a number of cooking classes at Charleston Cooks! Maverick Kitchen Store yet the lowcountry class is by far the most popular.

At Middleton Place the mission is to “interpret history by serving many ingredients and dishes authentic to the area and culture of the Antebellum lowcountry,” says Douglas Beard, vice president of foodservice for Middleton Place Foundation. But culinary history is more often a foundation than literally on the menu. Today’s Charleston menus boast creations like grilled barbecue tuna (at Slightly North of Broad), duck confit and dirty grits with baby turnips and bacon sage gravy (at Charleston Grill), lump crab and avocado salad with grilled chayote squash (at Palmetto Café), and pork shoulder with Japanese pumpkin, Brussels sprouts and roasted apple (at FIG).

“We’ve got a hell of a restaurant scene here!” says Lee. “Extremely dedicated, talented chefs using all their skills and techniques in a modern way.” What’s more, Charleston continues to draw new restaurateurs such as Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito of Baked. In short, Charleston’s good eating is only getting better.

Luxury Accommodations

As a major entry port for Africans captured in the slave trade—between 1700 and 1775 nearly 40 percent of Africans imported into North America as slaves passed through its harbor—Charleston has long had a sizeable black population and yet very limited segregation. Former slave quarters (a.k.a., carriage houses, servant housing and dependencies) stand throughout the city alongside former owners’ mansions. Long since upgraded, remodeled and transformed into luxurious spaces, these structures are often now private residences or, as is the case at the 21 East Battery Bed & Breakfast, rental properties. (Yes, recommending former slave quarters as luxury accommodations feels surreal; however, lodging there feels like a way of respecting history while acknowledging humanity’s progress.)

Some of the most fantastic homes in the country stand on this stretch of land known as The High Battery, overlooking the Charleston Harbor. Each is unique in its architecture, history and personality. Many of these homes were erected before the Civil War. Photo courtesy of Charleston CVB

21 East Battery’s Carriage House, which is situated on the 1825 Edmondston-Alston House compound, is a spacious two-story separate structure—no worries about hearing noisy neighbors!—with a bedroom suite, one-and-a-half bathrooms, kitchen and dining room, two dens plus balcony with a view of the harbor. Inside the refrigerator juice, milk, healthy snacks and continental breakfast await arriving guests. Conveniently located across the street is “High Battery,” the city’s waterfront promenade. The Battery, a park where the Cooper and Ashley Rivers meet, is blocks away. Guests gain free admission to The Edmondston-Alston House Museum, which boasts antiques, original Audubon artworks and other treasures.

The popular Town and Country package pairs a bed and breakfast stay with additional nights at The Inn at Middleton Place, which is adjacent to Middleton Place plantation, America’s oldest landscaped gardens and a National Historic Landmark. Owned and operated by the same folks as 21 East Battery, the more rustic townhouse-style Inn accommodations include a deluxe breakfast plus admission to Middleton Place. At the restful Inn it’s possible to awaken to the sounds of rustling leaves and hoo-ing owls then later commune with nature while strolling through the 65-acre showy gardens.

Extensive Entertainment

There’s no excuse to be bored in Charleston. With 15 stops along Museum Mile—including historic homes as well as art, military, cultural and other museums—plus 12 historic places of worship and dozens of other points of interest, it’s possible to explore for a day, a week or longer. Go sailing, play a round of golf, visit the aquarium or take an eco-tour. Parks and squares offer restful areas to take a break, read a book or watch people. What’s more, the city is host to dozens of festivals throughout the year and folks’ upbeat, friendly attitude shows they know how to have a good time and hope you do, too.

BONUS

4HomeCooks

Carolina Rice and Vegetable Sauté
Serves 6-8

1 carrot, peeled
4 Tablespoons butter
½ onion, diced
1 cup corn, fresh off the cob or frozen kernels thawed
8-10 okra, sliced or half medium zucchini, chopped
½ cup chicken stock
2 cups cooked Carolina Plantation Aromatic rice (jasmine rice may be substituted)
½ pint grape tomatoes, halved
¼ cup fresh basil chiffonade

1. Shred carrot on large holes of box grater and set aside.
2. Heat a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. Melt 2 Tablespoons of butter in the pan and add the onions. Sweat the onions until they are translucent.
3. Add the corn, zucchini and carrot to the pan and cook 1-2 minutes.
4. Add the chicken stock to the pan and bring to a simmer. Cook the vegetables in the stock until they are just tender, approx. 3-5 minutes.
5. Fold in the tomatoes, okra and cooked rice. Mix well. Cook for 1 minute more.
6. Remove pan from heat and stir in the remaining butter and the basil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Variation: Any vegetables in season can be substituted for the vegetables noted above.

—Recipe Courtesy Charleston Cooks! Maverick Kitchen Store

If You Go

Where2Stay

21 East Battery Bed & Breakfast
21 East Battery in the Edmondston-Alston House
843-556-0500
www.21eastbattery.com

Charleston Place
205 Meeting St.
843-722-4900
www.charlestonplace.com

Middleton Place – A carefully preserved 18th century plantation and a National Historic Landmark, Middleton Place encompasses America’s oldest landscaped Gardens. Photo courtesy of Charleston CVB

The Inn at Middleton Place
4290 Ashley River Rd.
843-556-0500
www.theinnatmiddletonplace.com

Where2Eat

Baked Charleston
160 E. Bay St.
843-577-2180
http://bakednyc.com

Charleston Grill
224 King St.
843-577-4522
www.charlestongrill.com

FIG
232 Meeting St.
843-805-5900
www.eatatfig.com

Magnolia’s
185 E. Bay St.
843-577-7771
www.magnolias-blossom-cypress.com

Middleton Place Restaurant
4300 Ashley River Rd.
843-556-6020
www.middletonplace.org

Palmetto Café
205 Meeting St.
843-722-4900
www.charlestonplace.com

Slightly North of Broad (S.N.O.B.)
192 East Bay St.
843-723-3424
www.mavericksouthernkitchens.com

What2Do

Charleston Cooks! Maverick Kitchen Store
194 East Bay St.
843-722-1212
www.charlestoncooks.com
Cooking school course topic and cost varies; some classes are free. Visit website for details.

Alphonso Brown leads the Gullah Tours. Photo by Hope S. Philbrick

Gullah Tours
843-763-7551
www.gullahtours.com
Two-hour tours run Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m. & 1 p.m.; Sat. 11 a.m., 1 p.m. & 3 p.m. $18/adult; $15/middle- and high-school student; $12/elementary student.

Middleton Place Plantation
4290 Ashley River Rd.
843-556-6020
www.middletonplace.org

Admission $25/adult, $5/child age 7-15. House museum +$10. Carriage tour +$15.
Overview tours on the hour 10 a.m.-3 p.m.; tours with an African-American focus run daily at 11 a.m. and 1 p.m.

Palmetto Carriage Works
40 North Market St.
843-723-8145
www.carriagetour.com
One-hour tours in a mule-drawn carriage explore 25-30 blocks of historic downtown Charleston. $20/person.

When2Go

Charleston is host to many festivals throughout the year. Among them:

March 4-7, 2010
Charleston Food + Wine Festival
www.charlestonfoodandwine.com

April 16-18, 20
10World Grits Festival
www.worldgritsfestival.com

June 5, 2010
Sweetgrass Festival
www.sweetgrassfestival.org

September 23-October 3, 2010
MOJA Arts Festival
www.mojafestival.com

4MoreInfo

Charleston Area SC Convention & Visitors Bureau
800-774-0006
www.charlestoncvb.com

Top photo: Several carriage tours are available downtown. Horse (or mule) drawn buggies take travelers back to a simpler time. Courtesy of the Charleston Visitors & Convention Bureau.

Hope S. Philbrick is a freelance writer because she doesn’t think work and fun should be mutually exclusive. For more of Hope’s writing on food, wine and travel visit her blog at www.insathope.blogspot.com.

Tagged as: African, Charleston, Civil War history, Gullah, Lowcountry, slaves, South Carolina, The Battery