The Flavors of Montréal

By Hope S. Philbrick

Depending on where you’re coming from, a trip to Montréal can be less expensive than a trip to Paris but equally charming. Full of history and spectacular architecture you’ll find French language, food and style in harmony with familiar aspects of North American culture.

No matter your reason for visiting Montréal—business or pleasure, family obligation or romantic escape—you’ll need to eat. Lucky for you, great dining options abound within the city and beyond. In fact, there are over 5,000 restaurants in the city and on average Montréal residents eat out three times a week! Since dining is such an important part of its social scene Montréal was among the first members of Délice, a new association for gourmet cities around the world.

Montréal and its cuisine feel both familiar and foreign. Signs and menus are written in French yet it’s easy to get by using only English because most Quebecers are bilingual. Ingredients like pork, apples, cheese and maple syrup are as common as they are in the U.S., although our northern neighbors’ preparations show a strong French influence.

Québec’s cuisine is a tasty blend of French and indigenous culinary traditions and techniques with additional influences from the food cultures of Greece, Italy, Japan, Spain and more—in all, 80 distinct ethnic communities contribute to the population. Regional specialties include ragoût de boulettes (pork meatballs with seasoning), cretons du Québec (chilled minced pork), poutine (French fries with cheese curds and gravy), and tarte au sucre (maple sugar pie). Expect to also find game meats (such as wild boar, venison and caribou) on menus as well as a range of alcoholic drinks made from maple sap or apples.

There’s certainly no excuse for going hungry. Among the best dining options:

Pork filet with maple syrup and star anise at Auberge des Gallant. Photo by Marie-Chantal Lepage

Auberge des Gallant
This upscale restaurant located in Ste-Marthe utilizes maple syrup in every dish served, from butternut squash soup to pork filet to maple crème brûlée—but that doesn’t mean everything is sickly sweet. The chef expertly uses maple syrup to add a complex layer of flavor to every dish, thus showcasing the maple syrup that’s produced on site. Every bite leads to wanting more.
450.459.4241
www.gallant.qc.ca

Cocagne Bistro Orgueilleux
The chefs at this contemporary bistro in Montréal expertly transform regional ingredients into upscale cuisine with a strong French influence. Dishes ordered with the intent to share may lead to dueling forks.
514.286.0700
www.bistro-cocagne.com

Maison des Cultures Amérindiennes
Billed as “a museum you can savor,” this American Indian Museum is located in Mont-Saint-Hilaire on a mountain that’s a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. Seasonal exhibitions here include meals that showcase native ingredients like maple syrup, corn and pumpkin. A visit here is a tasty way to learn about food and culture.
450.464.2500
www.maisonamerindienne.com

The McCord Café
This casual eatery tucked inside the McCord Museum in Montréal is a cozy place to enjoy high-quality coffee or tea, a snack or lunch.
514.398.7100
www.mccord-museum.qc.ca/en/services/cafe

Restaurant Le Jozéphil
Located on the shore of the Richelieu River in Beloeil, this fine dining establishment is housed in a renovated 19th Century house. Chef/Owner Philippe Hamelin produces elegant dishes that rival the breathtaking views. The French-influenced cuisine showcases seasonal regional fare.
514.446.9751
www.jozephil.qc.ca

Pierre Faucher with some of his maple products. Courtesy of Tourism Montérègie/graphestudio.com

Sucrerie de la Montagne
“I like tradition and to preserve tradition,” says Pierre Faucher, proprietor of this heritage sugar shack located in a 120-acre maple forest in Rigaud. Visit here to gain insight into traditional maple syrup production, learn about Québec folklore, taste maple taffy and enjoy musical entertainment. Best of all, enjoy an all-you-can-eat feast that’s served family style and features dishes like pea soup, bacon, ham, baked beans, meatballs, sausage, baked potatoes, sugar pie and more.
450.451.0831
www.sucreriedelamontagne.com

More Tastes:

For between-meal sips and snacks these places are worthy of any foodie’s attention:

Canadian Maple Delights
Savor pastries made with maple syrup and purchase premium maple products in this Montréal specialty shop. The maple museum housed in the lower level provides insights into maple syrup production, traditions and health benefits.
514.765.3456
www.mapledelights.com

Cidrerie Michel Jodoin
This cider house in Rougemont, which is in Québec’s Montérègie region, has been farming apples for 100 years and producing cider since 1988. Outside the U.S., “cider” is understood to be an alcoholic drink and a few sips at Michel Jodoin’s proves that it can be as tasty, complex and worthy of attention as wine.
450.469.2676
www.cidrerie-michel-jodoin.qc.ca

Jean-Talon Market
Billed as the largest farmer’s market in North America, this Montréal treasure combines grocery shopping with quaint shops and neighborhood eateries. Be sure to stop by Havre aux Glaces for a scoop of maple gelato and Première Moisson for whichever breads and pastries tempt you.
514.937.7754
www.marchespublics-mtl.com

La Cabosse d’or
A chocolate lover’s dream, this shop located in Otterburn Park specializes in Belgian chocolates made without preservatives from top quality ingredients. Indulge in confections, pastries, ice creams and hot chocolate or coffee drinks.
450.464.6937
www.lacabossedor.com

RECIPE

Photo by Hope S. Philbrick

Pouding Chomeur “Bistro Cocagne”

This yummy dessert recipe is courtesy of Cocagne Bistro Orgueilleux.

Cream together:

1 Tablespoon softened butter
1 Tablespoon maple syrup
1 egg
pinch of salt
pinch of nutmeg

Add:

½ cup all purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ cup milk

Mix well. Separate batter into two small saucepans.

Mix together:

½ cup brown sugar
¾ cup heavy cream
¼ cup milk

Pour over batter.

Bake at 350ºF for 24 minutes.

Serve warm. Top with a scoop of maple or vanilla ice cream (optional).

If You Go

Where2Stay

Auberge des Gallant
Ste-Marthe, Québec
450.459.4241
www.gallant.qc.ca

Hilton Garden Inn Montréal Centre Ville
Montréal, Québec
514.840.0010
www.hiltongardenmontreal.com

L’Hostellerie des Trois Tilleuis
St-Marc-sur-Richelieu, Québec
514.856.7787
www.lestroistilleuls.com

Montréal Marriott Château Champlain
Montréal, Québec
514-878-9000
www.montrealmarriottchateauchamplain.com

Rates vary by season and room amenities. Seasonal specials and packages may be available.

4MoreInfo

Tourism Québec
www.bonjourquebec.com

Top photo: Eager tasters anticipate maple taffy at Auberge des Gallant. Photo by Michel Julien.

Hope S. Philbrick is a freelance writer because she doesn’t think work and fun should be mutually exclusive. For more of Hope’s writing on food, wine and travel visit her blog at www.insathope.blogspot.com.