The Hunting Island Lighthouse, South Carolina’s only lighthouse open to the public.
The Hunting Island Lighthouse, South Carolina’s only lighthouse open to the public.History, Wildlife, Beaches and More
Story and photos by Stacey Dougherty
When standing on the observation platform of the Hunting Island State Park Lighthouse it’s obvious why this coastal region of South Carolina is dubbed the Low Country. The expansive view of the park’s maritime forest canopy, together with the marsh grass bisected by the tidal creeks, stretches in every direction except eastward, where the deep blue of the Atlantic on this bright sunny day contrasts perfectly. As I stand 132 feet above the ground and gaze at the sweeping vista all around, the only other structure that could compete with the lighthouse’s full height of 170 feet is perhaps a water tower a couple of miles away. Nothing in the natural landscape comes close to the house’s stature.
Hunting Island State Park is South Carolina’s most popular park and is situated on the eastern end of Beaufort County, in the area known as the Sea Islands. With five miles of beach and 5,000 acres, the park is a truly authentic example of what the area looked like hundreds of years ago.
Lighthouse History
The original lighthouse was destroyed during the Civil War by the Confederates to prevent the Union troops from using it. Beaufort, only sixteen miles west of the park, and the surrounding area including Port Royal, fell to the Union early in the war and remained a Federal stronghold until the war’s end. By 1875 a new lighthouse was completed and its design was quite innovative. It was built with an eye toward moving it should future erosion threaten its existence. In 1889 the threat became a reality and the lighthouse was moved a little over a mile southwest of its original location. The special design called for it to be constructed of curved cast iron plates that could be dismantled, moved and reconstructed. All this took place within four months from the start of the process and here it still stands, the only lighthouse in South Carolina open to the public.
Fortunately for my family, when I was looking for a coastal retreat to spend our vacation I came upon the area doing some research online. I found condos in the gated community of Harbor Island that were quite reasonable and within walking distance to the beach. The community is made up of many beautiful private homes and several three-story buildings housing well-appointed condo apartments. The amenities include pools for each building, tennis courts and a general store for basic food and sundry items. The nearest supermarket is over a dozen miles away, back in Beaufort. We found that the greatest amenity of all was Hunting Island State Park and before we arrived, we had no idea that it even existed. Located just two miles down the road from our condo we spent just about every day at the park.
As a transplant, I have to admit that I have visited many areas in the South that I probably never would have ventured out to see if I had not moved to the Atlanta area ten years ago. I’m embarrassed to say that as a former big city Northerner, southern Florida was the only area in the region that I had been to before moving down here. Thankfully, I have seen the error of my ways and beg forgiveness. Of the many beautiful places I’ve had the opportunity to explore, the Sea Islands area of Beaufort County is one of my favorites.
- The entrance to the lighthouse.
Wildlife
The great novelty of the Low Country is experiencing the tides as they rise and fall everyday. It is the backdrop for viewing the local wildlife, on land, in the air and under the surface. And if you want to view wildlife, this is the place. From the dolphins that practically tap you on the shoulder as they swim by to the amazing number of birds conducting their aerial ballet during the normal course of their hunt for their daily meal, you’ll find that the ocean and salt marshes are an endless source for viewing the locals who don’t belong to the human race. Including the alligators. They usually keep to themselves but can be seen occasionally in the fresh water creeks getting some sun, just barely above the water line.
One of the more exciting facts about the park is that the beach is a nesting area for loggerhead sea turtles. From mid-May to mid-August, female loggerheads venture back to this beach where they were born and lay their eggs. After about two months the eggs hatch and the young turtles make their way to the surf in the dark of night. The county’s seasonal ordinance to prohibit flashlights on the beach at night and require beachfront homes and condos to draw their curtains and blinds in the evenings, prevents the hatchlings from becoming disoriented from the light and able to find the water quickly.
- A loggerhead turtle nest on the beach.
Due to erosion, many of the loggerhead nests must be relocated above the high tide line and the park personnel, together with the help of volunteers from the local organization Friends of Hunting Island, do the job as needed. The nests are marked and a screen is placed over them to keep out predators. During the hatching season from July to October, volunteers patrol the beach in the evenings to help make way for any hatchlings that emerge and try to make their way to the ocean. That is the most dangerous time for the youngsters and with the help of volunteers and Beaufort County’s ‘lights out’ ordinance, most are able to reach the surf safely.
Early morning is the best time to walk the deserted beach at Hunting Island State Park.
Early morning is the best time to walk the deserted beach at Hunting Island State Park.Nature Center, Fishing Pier, Trails and Campgrounds
A wonderful Nature Center on the park’s southern end is full of displays and exhibits of the many animals that call the Low Country home. Examples of them are everywhere and the information sheets are especially helpful to identify the numerous species of birds and fish that are native to the area.
Attached to the Nature Center and extending out over 1,100 feet into Fripp Inlet is the park’s Fishing Pier. It attracts local fisherman as well as visitors trying to bring home dinner, whether they’re at the park’s campground or staying in a nice rental nearby. The pier is equipped with hoses and built-in tables you may use to scale and clean your catch. Along the length of the pier are interpretive signs that describe the plant life in the marshes, the importance of the marsh to the local ecosystem and all manner of life above and beneath the surface.
- The fishing pier at the park’s southern end is the longest freestanding pier on the East Coast.
Not too far from the Nature Center, across a footbridge over a small lagoon, you’ll find most of the dozen cabins the park rents out to visitors. Ranging from one to three bedrooms, some can accommodate up to ten people. With heat and central air, full kitchens and cable TV they are a good value for those who want to immerse themselves in nature. The park also offers campsites on its northern end with over 170 sites that have water and electrical hookups and can accommodate RVs from 28 to 40 feet long. Additionally, ten designated tent sites are available that have access to water and are convenient to hot showers with restroom facilities.
Many of the trails within the park are narrow and paved over which makes them easy to ride bicycles on. Another good thing is that the tree canopy is so dense that you’re protected from the harsh rays of the sun. The palmetto trees together with the moss draped live oaks lend themselves to a rather Jurassic Park look that is quite fantastic to behold. The forest looks so ancient that you almost expect something like a wooly mammoth to stomp through on its way to the watering hole.
Almost every morning of our vacation I was fortunate enough to enjoy a bike ride of about fifteen to twenty miles. To be able to do so in peace and quiet, with minimal traffic and surrounded by such pristine views spoke to me in a way no other place had before. One local I met during my stay put it perfectly, “The Sea Islands are food for the soul and I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else.”
If You Go
How2GetThere
Beaufort and the Sea Islands are about a forty-minute drive from I-95, exit 8 in South Carolina. Turn right off the exit ramp and follow the signs to Beaufort.
Where2Stay
Accommodations in Historic Beaufort range from former antebellum mansions turned into B&Bs to the nearby Best Western on Bay Street and other name brand hotels and motels in this small city.
Google “B&Bs in Beaufort SC” and just about every one in town will come up.
For vacation rental properties your best bet is to go to www.vrbo.com. Click on SC on the map and then choose Low Country and Resort Islands.
Where2Eat
Plums
904 ½ Bay Street.
Tel: 843.525.1946
In Beaufort, try Plums for lunch or dinner. Casual spot offering homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, pasta and fresh seafood. Kid friendly. Located on Bay Street, the dining room is in the rear and faces the city’s beautiful Waterfront Park. In good weather the outside deck is usually full.
Barbara Jean’s Restaurant & Bar
47 Ferry Road, Beaufort SC 29907
Tel: 843.524.2400
Further along Hwy 21 on Ferry Road, on the way to Hunting Island is the small regional chain, Barbara Jean’s Restaurant & Bar. Specializing in crab cakes, she crab soup, down home southern cooking and awesome desserts. Lunch and dinner daily. Breakfast served on weekends and holidays only, from 8 am. www.barbarajeans.com
Shrimp Shack
1929 Sea Island Pkwy, St. Helena Island, SC 29920.
On St. Helena Island just before the Harbor River Bridge is the Shrimp Shack. A favorite of the locals, the place is absolutely no frills. Place your order at the window for offerings like the fresh shrimp burger and flounder sandwich along with sweet potato fries. Open Mon.-Sat. serving only until 8 pm. Closed Sundays.
What2Do
Barefoot Bubba’s
For outdoor activities there’s Barefoot Bubba’s right between Harbor Island and Hunting Island State Park. Rent bikes, surfboards and kayaks (will deliver and pick-up). www.barefootbubbas.com
Hunting Island State Park
Daily admission $4 adults, $2.50 S.C. seniors, $1.50 children 6-15 yrs. Under 5 yrs. FREE. Lighthouse Admission $2 www.southcarolinaparks.com
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I adore WREN on Carteret St. it’s joy in all aspects and a dining must. Their chicken salad will be in southern hearts for decades.
The Rhett House Inn is truly the best in town. Their brunches are magnificent.
Have a picnic on the waterfront and enjoy that park. What a lovely town. My favorite find of 2008 and I have been back dozens of times.
Do not miss this town. There is nothing like it and it is a destination. Bring your camera and stay a few days…