Paradise With Its Own National Park
Story and photos by Stacey Dougherty
It was mid-afternoon and we were sitting on the open upper deck of the Red Hook ferry on St. Thomas. As we waited to get under way to St. John, we were treated to a surprise welcome from one of the locals. The passenger behind us made the sighting and we directed our gaze to a sailboat about fifty yards away. There it was, swimming past the bow. Even with a stiff breeze the water was clear enough to make out the sizable body of a sea turtle. Our twelve-year-old daughter, tired from the long trip, perked up instantly and I immediately took it as a good omen for this highly anticipated trip.
Our final destination was St. John, the smallest of the U.S. Virgin Islands and considered by many to have some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. I am in complete agreement with that assessment having seen them for myself once before.
As true beach bums, my husband and I have always preferred the shore to the mountains. Sand and surf are just part of our DNA and we passed that along to our daughter. She spread her toes in the sand for the first time on the Jersey Shore the very first summer of her life and by the time she was three years old she was swimming like a fish. For all of us, this particular trip was a big deal.
Getting to St. John requires a little more effort than most islands in the Caribbean. The nearest airport is on St. Thomas so a cab ride to one of two ferry docks is required, plus the ferry ride itself and then a cab or a rental car to get to your accommodations. The Red Hook ferry is a further ride from the airport but the ferry runs more frequently throughout the day and the ride is only fifteen minutes to St. John’s biggest town, Cruz Bay. But trust me, all the maneuvering is well worth it.
The last time my husband and I had been here was almost fifteen years ago and it was always our intention to return. We looked forward to introducing our daughter, Devon, to the inherent beauty that drew us back. The greatest things about St. John are its size – only seven miles long and three miles wide – and the fact that three-fifths of the island is part of the Virgin Islands National Park and thus protected from development.
The park was created in the 1950s when Laurence Rockefeller donated most of the land to the federal government. The first and for decades the only luxury resort on the island, Caneel Bay, was originally owned by Rockefeller and was the first Rock Resort. The only other full service luxury resort on the island, the St. John Westin, now joins it.
The lack of other large-scale hotels is a welcome change from other Caribbean islands and what undoubtedly contributes to St. John’s popularity. Not one high rise exists on St. John and the locals plan on keeping it that way. Driving around the island on most days you get the impression that you have the place mostly to yourself, except for the few days a week that cruise ship passengers swarm through. Then all you have to do is drive to the beaches on the East End and enjoy the quiet.
Accommodations range from quaint B&Bs to eco-camps and lodges, to condos and private homes, known as villas, which can accommodate two people all the way up to twenty-two. The decision on where to stay all depends on the size of your group, the size of your pocketbook and exactly how close to Mother Nature you’d like to be.
The villa we chose was called Carnival Beach House. We found it on caribbeanvilla.com and chose it for its waterfront location and perfect size for our small family. It had two ensuite bedrooms in a two story stone structure with a huge outdoor multilevel patio anchored by a large infinity edge pool overlooking the Caribbean. My husband and I joked that the patio and pool probably cost more to build than the house we live in. Doug and Bonnie, the caretakers of the property, met us at the ferry dock in Cruz Bay, then took us to our rental car and we followed them back to the villa which was located overlooking Klein Bay. Driving in the U.S. Virgin Islands is on the left and due to the steep winding roads, a four-wheel drive vehicle is highly recommended. Once we were out of town and climbing the hills, we got our first full view of the aqua waters of the Caribbean. To say Devon was impressed is putting it mildly.
Carnival Beach House is actually the guesthouse of a much larger home. The infinity pool was just steps from our door and a rocky beach was just a short flight of steps down from the large covered patio outside of Devon’s room. After a short orientation of the amenities that include cable TV, air-conditioning, beach chairs, floats, boogie boards and food and drink coolers, Doug and Bonnie quietly left us to our own devices. Unless we needed them for something, they gave us complete privacy throughout the week of our stay.
After we unpacked we made our way to the grocery store to stock up for the week. Each suite had its own small kitchenette plus we had an outdoor gas barbeque and we intended to use it. Starfish Market was back in Cruz Bay and it had just about everything we needed for our stay. Another good market in town is Dolphin Market and for many things they can be a bit less expensive. When we returned to the villa we ate and hung out by the pool, gearing up for the fun we planned for the next day.
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The view from the upper level suite’s balcony at Carnival Beach House.
The view from the upper level suite’s balcony at Carnival Beach House.
Hitting the beach
Several overlooks perfect for picture taking are on this road and the busiest one showcases St. John’s most famous beach, Trunk Bay. This is perhaps the most photographed beach in the entire Caribbean but no photograph can truly capture its spectacular beauty. Lying inside the Virgin Islands National Park, Trunk Bay is also home to a marked underwater trail that identifies the sights for snorkelers. Snorkel equipment is available for rent but keep in mind that this is the island’s most visited beach. The crowds are worse when there are several cruise ships docked in St. Thomas at one time. To find out which days the crowds will be the heaviest, ask any of the local taxi drivers. They usually know the cruise lines’ schedules.
We decided to visit the beach at Little Maho Bay first, the furthest along the North Shore Road. The beach is accessible through the Maho Bay Campground, which is an environmentally conscious tent resort that offers probably the least expensive accommodations on the island. Amenities like direct beach access, watersports, snorkel and kayak rentals (for a fee) and a restaurant are available just like most resorts, but think more along the lines of summer camp.
All the tent platforms are nestled in the trees scattered along a lengthy boardwalk that was constructed to preserve the native plants and delicate soil structure of the slopes the resort is built on. And due to those slopes, the descent to the beach involves many stairs so it’s best to only bring the absolute essentials. As soon as we hit the beach and set up our stuff, we were in the water with our masks and swimming over to the rocks to see who could spot the most brightly colored fish. Of course the eagle-eyed twelve-year-old won, hands down.
The beach here is calm and we stay several hours just swimming and snorkeling, amazed by the pelicans flying by and the incredible beauty that surrounds us. Lunch was taken care of – we had bought wraps from Starfish Market on the way that morning and they certainly hit the spot. Snorkeling does makes you ravenous.
By mid-afternoon we decide to go back to the villa and hang out by the pool, and that becomes more or less our routine for the week. A glass of wine, an easy and delicious barbequed dinner, followed by dessert and a game of Scrabble are the perfect end to a perfect day. The glittering night sky made stargazing a real treat. The rhythmic sound of the waves lapping the pebbles on shore was the perfect music to send us off to sleep.
Exploring the other side
We take the Centerline Road (Route 10) through the middle of the island and pass by some of the highest elevations on St. John. The highest, Bordeaux Mountain, rises over twelve hundred feet and looks out over the East End, the Sir Francis Drake Channel and many of the British Virgin Islands. On any clear day this is one of the most spectacular views the Caribbean has to offer. When we reach the junction of Route 107 we make a right (this is just before entering the town of Coral Bay) and take this almost to the end to the parking lot for the beach at Salt Pond Bay. The beach is a five-minute walk from the parking lot and is typically quite deserted most days.
There are some picnic tables along the beach and a fancy deluxe pit toilet, provided and maintained by the Park Service. Behind the scrubby vegetation that lines the beach is an actual salt pond, hence the name of the beach, and one of several that can be found on the island. It’s a somewhat desolate and scrubby landscape, but lit by the bright sun and topped with a perfect blue sky it manages to possess its own unique, if somewhat eerie, beauty. The reddish brown color of the water is derived from the red algae that live at the bottom of the pond. Some locals collect the sea salt that forms in this pond for personal use and claim it is full of minerals and quite healthy.
Back to the beautiful sandy beach and we take off to find some underwater sea life in the clear, sparkling, calm waters. Unfortunately, we don’t see nearly as much as we did the day before so we decide to trek further down the road to Little Lamshur Bay. Once we leave the parking lot at Salt Pond Bay the road turns to dirt and we’re very glad we have 4WD. Little Lamshur is near the end of the road and is a small sandy crescent, also with some picnic tables, a deluxe outhouse and better shady spots than Salt Pond. The water here is quite calm and the bottom is full of sea grass, the favorite meal of the hawksbill turtle. My daughter’s biggest hope this week is to have a close encounter with one of these fascinating creatures. We spend a couple of hours here and decide to go for a late lunch in Coral Bay.
On the way to town we pass through Friis Bay Beach and see a sign for Miss Lucy’s Restaurant. On our first visit to St. John all those years ago my husband and I had lunch there and we’re delighted to see that it is still in business. Not many guidebooks mention Miss Lucy’s but it does have an excellent reputation as an outstanding West Indian restaurant. Their full moon pig roasts and jazz accompanied Sunday brunches are legendary. We vow to make the trip for dinner during our stay this time.
- Uncrowded and calm at Little Lamshur Bay.
On to the tiny town of Coral Bay, we stop at Skinny Legs, a beach bar and burger joint that has the best pina coladas I’ve ever had. They’re not frozen or frou-frou-y but instead are served on the rocks and definitely homemade, not from a mix. Yummy! The burgers were grilled perfectly. Service is attentive and very friendly but all meals are cooked to order, so remember you’re on island time.
Back at the villa we’re settled into our comfortable nightly routine but before dinner we venture down to our rocky beach to check out the waves. Unlike the majority of the island’s beaches there is no sand here, only goose egg sized rocks that become smaller the closer you get to the water. The surf the past few days has had a strong undertow and there’s a steep drop-off close in so we only get our feet wet. Less than a thousand yards away to the west is Ditliff Point, a steep rocky peninsula that when climbed, reveal views that encompass Rendezvous Bay to the east, Fish Bay to the north and Reef Bay to the west.
What I neglected to do before this trip was arrange for a kayak to be delivered to the villa so we could paddle around in the mornings. Arawak Expeditions rents the sit on top type of kayak, single or double, by the day or week and delivers them to your villa but they were out of them by the time we arrived on the island. The company also offers half day, full day and multi-day expeditions using “sit inside” ocean kayaks. The beach in front of Carnival Beach House would have been the perfect launch point for daily morning jaunts and the exercise would have been a bonus. I won’t forget the next time.
It takes two to paddle
The beach enjoys sweeping views of the British Virgin Islands, Whistling Cay and Mary’s Point, the northernmost point on St. John. And due to the presence of a large rock named Cinnamon Cay about two hundred yards from the beach, the water is sheltered from the ever present tradewinds and remains quite calm. That led me to believe that Devon and I could kayak out to Whistling Cay to enjoy some of the good snorkeling to be had around its rocks. Since my husband was recovering from a broken hand he had no choice but to stay behind.
We rented a double kayak for a half-day and after the orientation we eagerly set out. Whistling Cay is maybe half a mile or so from the beach and lies next to Mary’s Point, forming a passage between the two. Getting out there by kayak is a popular pastime for many visitors and most are successful.
As we passed Cinnamon Cay and became exposed to the wind, it did everything it could to keep us from our destination. It was blowing at over twenty knots and we were headed right into it. As we inched our way out there Devon’s arms, thin as spaghetti, just gave out. I managed to keep the kayak pointed into the swells but with only one constant paddler, it was a tough slog. Between her wailing, “We’re going to die!” we watched numerous sailboats around us, most at full sail, swiftly gliding through the turquoise water as though they were racing for the America’s Cup.
The passage between Whistling Cay and Mary’s Point was the culprit – the narrow passage intensified the wind coming through it and our lack of sails and the direction we were traveling just added up to the fact that we didn’t stand a chance. We managed to get within twenty yards of the beach but no matter how hard we pushed it we couldn’t land the boat. We stopped paddling, turned the kayak around and let the wind work for us, for a change. We made it back in less than half the time and took some solace in snorkeling around the nearby cay, which turned out to be full of many large and colorful fish.
We worked up quite an appetite and headed over to T’ree Lizards Restaurant, the only restaurant in Cinnamon Bay and part of the campground. It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and although the line for orders moved at a glacial pace, the food was good and the ingredients fresh. My club sandwich was delicious and the burgers my husband and daughter ordered were first rate. Needless to say, at the end of this day we all slept like babies.
Miss Lucy’s
The restaurant sits near the rocky shoreline of Friis Bay with a stand of beautiful yet ancient sea grape trees with low hanging, twisted and gnarled limbs shading the outdoor patio overlooking the water. We sat inside the simple screened-in building and proceeded to feast on local vegetables in a savory broth, perfectly fried conch fritters, steamed clams in a wonderful garlic broth, blackened scallops, paella and fresh red snapper. Everything we ordered was delicious, made with the freshest ingredients and expertly seasoned with fragrant spices. My husband agreed that it was definitely worth the drive.
- The best sailing in the Caribbean can be found in the U.S. and British Virgin Islands.
Sailing to the BVIs
The U.S. and British Virgin Islands are considered to be the sailing capital of the Caribbean. Many diehard sailors say that the only spot more beautiful can be found in the Greek Isles. The van Hovens wholeheartedly agree. They love the life they have here and are extremely grateful that they can live their dream.
Gary picks us up in his tiny dinghy, Crumb on the Water, at the customs dock in Cruz Bay next to the National Park Service Visitors Center. The story behind the names of his boats is attributed to his past vocation – bagel baker and restaurant owner in Maryland for over 30 years. He and Joan left New York City in the 70’s, moved to Maryland and started a successful bagel restaurant. He started racing speedboats for fun in his spare time then he switched over to sailboats, learned to race them and never looked back.
When we board we meet Joan and first mate Roxy, a miniature pinscher with her own bright yellow life jacket. She’s the perfect companion for Devon who takes to her immediately. We had to leave our puppy back home with friends and Roxy fills the void. Once we set sail Roxy falls asleep to the gentle rocking of the boat.
After some snorkeling at Little Hawk’s Nest Bay, a lovely quiet beach on the North Shore, we head out to Jost and enjoy the gorgeous day we have ahead of us. Gary promises to take us to the other side of Jost van Dyke after Joan handles customs for us while we go see the famous Foxy’s Bar. Gary says that there’s a natural phenomenon he wants to show us on the far side of the island.
Sailing over, we marvel at the green peaks of St. John and Tortola and all the smaller islands that dot the waters with their verdant green hills. We spot many catamarans, some towing jet skis and hauling kayaks strapped to handrails on the decks. For generations, the waters here have been a vast playground and many come fully prepared to be able to participate in just about every water activity.
At Jost van Dyke Roxy wakes up and can’t wait to get in the dinghy and get to shore. She’s probably the most surefooted among us. It’s difficult to imagine but Gary says there are only about three hundred year-round residents on this tiny island. That number increased over 100 percent in the late nineties when the island got electricity for the first time. We stroll over to Foxy’s and are not surprised to find it empty this time in the morning. But there was a barman on duty and he gladly served me a perfectly frozen pina colada. The place is all open-air with a low thatched roof. When we looked up, all you could see were business cards and drink coasters tucked in the reeds of the thatch, many with handwritten notes. Serious partying takes place here with live music most nights and many of the regulars arrive on their boats.
Devon spotted something and asked, “Mom, why is there a bra hanging from the ceiling?’ I answered, “I don’t know sweetheart. Oh look! I think Gary and Joan are ready for us to leave.” Thankfully, with that, we headed back to the dock but I could hear my husband behind us trying hard not to laugh.
Back onboard we headed over to the other side of the island near Green Cay. The shallow waters are all the shades of turquoise and aqua you can imagine. Gary and Joan expertly moor the sloop and we board the dinghy and make our way to the nearby dock. The only building in sight is the beach bar and restaurant, Foxy’s Taboo, owned by Foxy’s daughter. The restaurant is one very large open air structure a few steps up from the sand, with fans on the high ceiling and clear plastic covers all along the open sides of the building that can be rolled down when the winds get too heavy. The bar is in the back and a very pretty West Indian woman is working behind it.
We take off with Gary on a foot trail that winds its way through some scrub brush and rocks to a secluded rock pool, protected from the encroaching sea by huge boulders. The twelve to fifteen foot natural plunge pool is beautiful and there are already some folks enjoying a dip. We get in and are quite surprised by how deep it gets only about three feet in. After a minute or two Gary tells us to get somewhere where we can stand and to hold on. Just as we do as he tells us, a huge ocean wave breaks through the spaces in the boulders and turns the pool into a natural spa tub.
It was surprising how strong the current was and I immediately understood why Gary told us to get in position. In deeper water we would have all been thrown against the rocks and suffered some nasty cuts and scrapes, for sure. Gary told us he’s been here so often that he knows when the waves are going to hit – there’s a certain rhythm he keeps his senses tuned for.
A half an hour later we’re back at Taboo and digging in to simple American and West Indian fare that includes delicious fresh fish sandwiches, burgers, spicy shrimp, fries and homemade coleslaw. The iced tea here is also quite refreshing. I brought the secret home with me and now I add a little ground ginger (very little – just two pinches for a gallon) to steeping tea as well as five or six fresh mint leaves. Steep for at least five minutes, remove the mint leaves, pour over ice, add some sweetener to taste and I am back in paradise.
Before we sail back to St. John we take another snorkel in the shallows off the boat in front of Foxy’s. There’s a lot of sea grass to be seen and Devon goes into sea turtle mode trying to spot one. She’s unsuccessful in that department but does find a medium sized conch shell that she takes for a souvenir. As we sail back to St. John on the top deck we all quietly relax and soak in the sun and the spectacular scenery. Gary makes his special fresh banana and rum concoction, with fresh grated nutmeg on top and we just can’t think of anything better than what we’re doing.
- On Jost Van Dyke, a rocky swimming hole with jet action from Mother Nature.
An unexpected encounter…almost
Needless to say, after a long day on the water we all slept soundly that night. So it was rather surprising and somewhat annoying to have my husband nudging me awake at six-forty-five in the morning. “You have to see this! There’s about a dozen or more sea turtles in the water right in front of the villa!” Now, I usually don’t move fast on any morning unless someone screams “Fire!” especially at that hour, but I was on that balcony like a shot, rubbing as much sleep out of my eyes as fast as I could. I caught what must have been a few bobbing heads but not much more. My husband swore that he had been watching them for maybe fifteen minutes or so and he was amazed at how many there were. The only thing to do was put on my bathing suit, grab my mask and snorkel and go wake up Devon. She had been trying all week to catch a glimpse of one up close.
She wasn’t crazy about being woken up so early either, but the word turtle had the desired effect. We were headed down the stairs to the beach in record time and braced ourselves as we entered the chilly water. We were headed straight out where my husband spotted them. The water was at least twenty-five to thirty feet deep and the bottom was covered in sea grass, their favorite food.
In an area about forty to sixty feet wide we saw the depressions in the sand where they had lain to eat their breakfast. The first one I saw was the largest, about five feet around and you could clearly see the outline of its huge shell and the head as well as all four flippers. Many of the other depressions were close by and ranged from two to four feet. They were all quite distinct and just seeing the impressions was incredible. We tried to spy at least one owner of those body prints but they were gone.
We snorkeled closer to Ditliff Point, near a boat that had been moored there all week but we had no luck. Turtles must swim a lot faster than they walk because although visibility was excellent, we didn’t spot one. We did see the usual fish and several rays gliding by but the water was surprisingly chilly and we headed back to the villa.
Yes, we were disappointed. But since this was our last full day, and we had such a great time all week, we decided that we had no choice but to return; hopefully, for years to come or at least until we meet at least one turtle, face to face.
If You Go
KnowB4YouGo
Visiting the U.S. Virgin Islands does not require a passport but any visit to the British Virgin Islands does. If you plan on chartering a boat or take a ferry to any of the BVIs, you must show a valid passport on entry and then show your passport again to US Customs upon your return. And driving on the islands is on the left.
How2GetThere
Non-stop flights on Delta from Hartsfield Jackson to Cyril E. King airport on St. Thomas. Ferry service available in Red Hook or Charlotte Amalie. The Red Hook ferry is further from the airport but takes about fifteen to twenty minutes to make the crossing and runs every hour until midnight. The ferry at Charlotte Amalie, while closer to the airport, takes forty-five minutes to reach Cruz Bay and only runs
until 5pm.
Where2Stay
Villas
Caribbeanvilla.com is an independent booking service for dozens of private homes on the island. Villas range from cozy one bedroom getaways to extravagant six and seven bedroom mansions with every amenity. Many have a pool or hot tub and virtually all have a water view. www.caribbeanvilla.com
Caneel Bay Resort
High end resort on 170 acres on the North Shore offers private ferry service between St. Thomas and St. John, 166 rooms, 4 restaurants, bar, pool, 7 beaches, 11 tennis courts, fitness center and a children’s program (fee required). Rooms are furnished in traditional West Indian style and do not have telephones or TVs for that total escape from civilization that guests prefer. www.rosewood-hotels.com
Westin St. John Resort and Villas
Located just 10 minutes form Cruz Bay along the south shore on 47 acres. The resort offers 175 rooms, 146 villas, a quarter acre pool, watersports, kids program (fee required), the 1200 square-foot Westin Teen Center and a spa. www.westinresortstjohn.com
Estate Lindholm
Family owned and operated since the 1950s this 14 room B&B overlooks Cruz Bay. Amenities include a pool, cable TV, telephone, wet bar, refrigerator, coffee-maker and microwave. www.estatelindholm.com
Maho Bay Camps
An environmentally conscious tent resort that has been in operation since 1976. The company that owns the campground also owns other accommodations on the island that are a bit more upscale while still maintaining their high environmental standards. www.maho.org
Where2Eat
Miss Lucy’s Restaurant & Bar
Estate Friis, Coral Bay
Tel. 340.693.5244
Skinny Legs
Near the dinghy dock in Coral Bay.
Tel. 340.779.4982
Go to www.stjohnusvi.com for a full list of island restaurants. Some in Cruz Bay that have good reputations include Asolare (best food and romantic setting), Margarita Phil’s, Chilly Billy’s, Limetree Inn and Woody’s Seafood Saloon. Elsewhere on the island are Chateau Bordeaux, Sweet Plantains and Island Blues.
How2GetAround
If you book with Caribbeanvilla.com they will book your jeep rental for you. At www.stjohnusvi.com you’ll find a list of all the jeep rental agencies on the island. Book your vehicle as soon as possible, preferably when you book your accommodations because vehicles are limited and demand is high.
What2Do
Bread on the Water
Sailing charters offered on this 46’ Beneteau Oceanis by owners Gary and Joan Van Hoven. www.sailbreadonthewater.com
Arawak Expeditions
Offers half, full and multi-day guided kayak excursions and kayak rentals. www.arawakexpeditions.com 340.693.8312
Virgin Islands National Park
At the Visitors Center in Cruz Bay you can pick up free maps of the island including one that details 20 hikes within the park’s boundaries. Guided hikes are available for a fee on the Reef Bay Trail as well as guided full moon hikes. www.nps.gov/viis/ 340.776.6201
Books2Read
St. John; Feet, Fins and Four-Wheel Drive by Pam Gaffin
St. John Off the Beaten Track by Gerald Singer
The Best of St. Thomas and St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands
by Pamela Acheson and Richard B. Myers
